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well i made 235 today and 233 lbf-ft of torque

was a good day lads was well worth the drive up :) was a bit shocked at what i made on the rollers tbh lol glad there is no pics on my sticking dirty car lol

also have you tried updating the software on the blu ray player?

um if it's been removed then it will run as a svc 4ohm sub but the rating will be halfed

you'll need a 2 channel amp for the comps also did you find the other binding post on the sub?

if you connect 2 4ohm subs you show the amp 2ohms so each sub would get half of it's output power @ 2ohms

they will just be for ease of connecting 2 subs to the amp the sub should have two sets of binding posts on it (oppersite each other) according to the manual

is there any other wires on the sub? as i know on my jl w6 it had one set of binding posts but some jumpers to run it in either 2 or 8 ohms

sorry didn't read your post properly:o your going to need at least 4 awg from the battery distribution block to split the power

well it normally says the power rating on the back of the sub itself or it might have a model number on the dust cap

well the current and voltage ratings are right it's just if the tip is the right size and shape mainly

a x-over network cable?

hard wired vm 20Mb had a 15ms ping time

you can buy a pre-made f-plug coax lead and f-plug splitter in maplins for a tenner

i get about 210 miles out of the polo before the light comes on but it has only got a 45l tank

if you have got a cable point down stairs then i'd just move it tbh

imho yeah i'd prefer something like this for the same price

i'd say 40 ish tbh but this is one of the reasons i'd never buy or recommend in phase s**t

yeah JL 1000/1 running at about 1200wRMS they did sound smooth in a nice sealed box and still managed 141.9 dB

30mm of xmax must be sweet:approve: i must say i miss my pair of infinity perfect 12vq's and 1000/1:(

nope it was just a tough plastic no Armour in sight

yeah that will work with fuses in the right places well it's a 4 channel amp so just use the rear channels and the will be the outer connections on the rear speaker terminals

the fibre optic cables they stick in the ground are pretty tough i've seen it being dragged in by a bunch of hairy arsed contractors on a jobber on the weekend and it work fine after;)

i'm pretty sure you can mount most subs inverted just need to make sure you adjust box size to take off sub displacement just stay away from the audiobunk

the lamp might be on it's way out and not maintaining it's arc (same way as a florescent lamp flashes sometimes when it's dying)

i personally see the problem with using the same supply to power fans and switch the amp on?

it might not make a difference which way round you connect the coil

yeah i did a little google to find the pin outs for the relay so i could get me head round it nah noise is not an issue as most 12v fans are brushless so make no emi

connect as above and it'll work fine

no the blue remote wire goes to just the relay then the output from the relay switch will supply the fans and the remote input on the amp pin 30 should be your fused supply from battery pin 87 should go to fans and amp remote input pin 85 should be remote from head unit pin 86 should be...