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well on your drawing it is 30

tbh i wouldn't bother with a fuse for the remote lead as you will have done enough damage to the head-unit before it operates anyway also i'd only run the relay coil from the remote and power the fans and the amp remote from the relay output

de-ionised water and a microfibre cloth

double the current = could melt some wiring double the heat = could melt something else

is it your number plate thats rattling? as mine used to like a b**ch just used some foam pads on the corners sorted it

bloody hell 6 fans to cool your cpu hope it's overclocked to the limit. also where did you get the water cooled bits from as i need some bits for something i'm building?

this apply to virgin media iplayer?

would hope not as if the ups does ask for the full 3750w you are going to be over the current rating of it and i know there not the best

the switch line goes into the fitting the perm line goes into a connector to make sure the rest of the lights still work

i'd try and see if you can pick up a cheap CRO off ebay i got one for £40 quid before when i trying to get a bit more out of my 1000/1

don't put more than a 120A fuse on 4 AWG you could live to regret it in the 1000/1 manual it states you need a 100A anl fuse

m3r3 i would guess at being a metal film 3.3 ohm resistor should cost about 1p

2.5 Twin & Earth end of.

i've got a dlink on my cable connection get a good signal all over the house can still pick up a signal in the car 10m outside the house lol

i don't see why you would need to add any relays as they would already be installed for fogs and main beams you'd only just be slightly altering the way they are controlled

but surely just putting a 1A diode between the the headlight relay coil and the fog light relay coil and also put a switch in to isolate it?

i used to use nano on my mybook world was easy enough to use via ssl

the rears in my clio seemed to have a beefier magnet on and a twin cone setup

spotted a 182 going through cwmbran town center at about 5 today saw a cliosport sticker so thought i'd put a post up

is it the socket thats broke or the lead as i had my power supply plug break a few months ago and i could sort of get to work if i moved the lead about cost £15 for 2 on ebay

my logitech wireless mouse stops working when i get a text or the phone rings so i'd say if it's a wireless move your phone away from mouse/pc

well the amp isn't the best tbh but you should still get a fair amount of sound if you wanted to replace it with something cheap i'd probably go for something like this

well yes if the amp is stable with a 2 ohm bridge load. if not then no(can't answer this as there are no real specs. to be found on the net) i'd connect it the way shown in wallops first pic in his post a couple of replies before

by the looks of it that wire is just a short between the + and -. and just make sure the coils are connected right as wallop has shown

a speaker cone moves up and down from rest to produce sound think you might be confused with switching between 0 and 180 degree phase rotation

i'd be searching the net to see if there ia a way to hard reset it or something i might be able to help some how as i've got a v+ box. by the looks of it would default back to scart output

this was my old clio tsw pace alloys

try reconnecting it the way you had it before the crash and then try again

i'd say bridge connect the sub first also check to see what the setting is on the gain (the lower the voltage the higher the gain) also that isn't the best amp tbh as i can't find any details on it it says 500w but it's probably only like 200wRMS

the paint bubbled on my tsw alloys tbh but also they imho looked better than the oem wheels you get with clio's (apart from the body kitted laguna engine ones)