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Well i have a stock 43k 172 engine ive taken apart and been tinkering with. Ive got a nice ITB setup next to me waiting to be bolted to it, but i couldnt possibly put it all together without having a tinker with the head ;) I know a fair amoun about engines, but absolutely 0 about cylinder...

Talk to harvythehippo on clio16valver, he's done exactly this. He will be your best bet for wiring loom questions.

Yeah looks like general wear to me, not a lot to worry about, they all look something like that.

Why not if its got EFI (which i believe all the 1.4 energ lumps), its just as remappable as a Valver / Williams / 172 e.t.c and their stock ECU's. Soldering may be required, but its required on every valver and williams too, so no different.

Lol open a can of worms why not! Many many (and generally poorer tuners), will gas flow heads for peak power, high valve lifts e.t.c, this can lead a piss poor engine. From memory expect around 5% - 10% (could be wrong!) gains in flow accross pretty much the entire rev range, which will be a...

i *believe* his services to fully rebuild and fully gas flow a cylinder head is now 650. Worth every penny imo (from what ive seen of when my engine was running and numerous numbers of friends who have heads done by him). Worth the extra over other companies anyday imo.

http://www.ap-developments.com/ Its been *under construction* for about 250 years now, give him a call tommorow though.

Craig will do you the best work out their IMO. Only need uprated valve springs if your running substantially beefier cams, i.e cat 422's

Worst thing you could do to an RSI / 16v I reckon, turn them into sluggish piles of poo

Dephaser pulley

Craig wants me to run 423's on a std BE with ITB's but with some custom cam timing lol

Yes please :rasp:

Exactly, whats the difference in say having that C&B spec in originals and regrinds? the specs are the same, same duration, same lift, but the regrinds are of a worse quality profile and harsher on the drivetrain. The difference will be the shape of profile inbetween stated figures, i.e on...

Same as any other engine. You'll be able to leave the internals standard upto around 6psi (i.e a standard low boost conversion). High boost conversions (generally 12Psi and above), required forged internal compoenents, around 850 quid plus fitting.

Craig @ APD will be doing my mapping ;)

OK brilliant, two last question, are uprated valve springs required for the 422's? and just in your opinion would they make the car *too* peaky?

I've got my 172 bare head, ive taken all teh valves out to do a bit of tidy up headwork (remove casting and CNC marks while removing as little material as possible), ive heard the ph1's have much improved exhaust ports over ph2 head. Does anyone have any pictures of comparison or any adivce...

Thank you sir, never thought about changing the rpm switch off while on the dyno, good shout! 422's a bit to mental on std BE? EDIT: looking at 422 specs on catcam websites seems they have a substantial valve overlap thats not going to work on std pistons?

Right, my situation. I was all into the highly tuned mad sped F7R for my mk1, it was a pretty flat out spec High Comp F7R on jenveys, 11.75mm catcams blah blah, anyway i blew it up. I am now in possession of a ph2 172 engine, ive stripped it down to do a few personal improvements, and am...

Interesting i didnt think they would be any point on ITB's, but after you've said that i might invest in one for the engine im building now.

Did this just turn into a valver whoring thread?! Oh joy :D Some of my previous.. Which i turned into.. And my current one..

I was going to say Crank SIgnal type pickup would be best, but i bet no ones going to rig one of those up for a 'power run'

lmao that sounds like a well setup ecu, cold map all day long! :S

Re: Project 172 **** ITB'S - 204bhp *** Sausage filter fitted Page 14 Haha uprated i love being part of this club ;) Pipercross C603D ftw! Nice project mate, the funny thing is, the engine in the above pic i blew up so i now have a standard 172 engine in my garage, ive alaready...

Sounds like a slipping clutch. Put the car in 5th gear at about 40mph and go up a hill and put your foot to the floor, if the clutch is dead it should show up here..

Charged my mate 50 quid to do the cambelt and tensioners on his 1.2 D7F, couple of hours to do it :)

But your missing one key thing. All these fancy equations are great, but as your shoving in innacurate RPM values. I'll bet 100 quid to get the RPM value he rev'd the engine to say 2000rpm in 4th gear, then told the RR that that was infact true 2000rpm, To be fair the RPM gauge wont be that...

PLenty of JC5's ive seen have slightly worn input shaft bearings. Infact my past 3 gearboxs have all sounded rattly at idle, although a cammed ITB idle does really make it sound like a bag od spanners.

Thats the input shaft bearings, nothing to do with clutch. Unless your hearing these noises while the clutch pedal is being pushed down at idle.

Call me silly ive done a few cambelts for my mates valvers and williams. CAn you not get around using renault tools by..... 1) Rotating the engine to TDC, stick a pin in the crank 2) remove auxilary pulley 2) draw a tippex dot on the top of both pulleys on one of the "teeth", and draw a...