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BUTRE: I know never to buy a car from you. :D

There is a soft cut limiter and a hard cut limiter. Soft cut is when the spark in each cylinder is missed out in turn (so every 3rd spark will not happen), and hard cut is when both fuel and ignition is cut on all cylinders.

If its a new ECU you can swap them in and out easily. My old ECU has 4 screws (to hold it in place) and two plugs - simple. Piggyback ECUs are a little more tricky I suppose.

Yea thats the one. :oops:

Yea after locking the car the alarm takes a minute or so to arm. You can tell when it has because something (I forget exactly what) happens to the lock switch light or the alarm light in the car.

This is correct. Rain sensitive wipers are a luxury us Cup owners have to do without. Both my doors have locks, but mine is September 2002 spec. Also the alarm and immobiliser is Cat 1 and Cat 2 respectivly as Robby stated.

The A-Pillar is a good place because it creates a really nice sound stage.

Mine was one of the first in the country so waited longer than you would do now. ;)

I will own a 6R4 one day. There were only 24 (I think) Ford RS200 EVOs made though, and sell for around £150,000 today!

Unfortunately the cable colours on the plug do not correspond to what is in the door :( Also I got a multimeter today but that does not tell you if the polarity is + or - since it is alternating current.

Ill just buy a multimeter i think :D Cheers guys

Yea I dont have a multimeter, but there must be a simple way to tell. There are no give aways like 1 is striped and the other isnt on any cable set.

Yea thats right theyre all different colours that follow no logic whatsoever but thanks all the same :)

Could anyone tell me which colour cable goes to + and which goes to - on the new Clios please. I need to know both the front and rear + and - colours for both sides as Im in a bit of a phase muddle. Thanks in advance.

Im swapping the standard head unit back in a few minutes - will keep you posted.

Hi Guys and Girls, When I got my Cup back in September, I changed the sound system within about a week. Sony MP70 head unit (4x52 rms) Kenwood components up front (dashboard-off job) Alpine 3-ways at the rear Now my mate has just purchased a Clio and I was out in it last night, and...

If you are after doing a few mods to the car, you need look elsewhere than the R-Sport ECU. The main attraction to the R-Sport ECU is the warranty approval, but this warranty will not stand with other mods, thus making it no more apealing than a superchip etc. The R-Sport ECU is not mappable...

Thanks Rob. Can I suggest we stop this thread here before we have another argument that no one wants?

Philip - Im afraid that your Renault dealer has been mis-informed. I checked with both R-Sport (where the work was done) and my Renault dealer before having the work carried out.

Currently the only warranty approved modification is a competition ECU. You wont see anything like 200bhp from it, but you can notice it. I have one and I am very happy with it and think it makes a very noticeable difference, but everyone else who doesnt have one seems to know better than me! :(...

If you were only doing 70 you will not get done for it. There are markings on the floor 1 metre apart. The first flash takes a pic, then the second flash does. If you have moved further in the second pic than you should have done (measured by the markings), you were speeding! Hope this helps.

It starts to degrade after 40 days. How fast it does this is dependent on the usual variables i.e. temperature etc.

Its about 40 days. In this time it must be refined, loaded for transport, transported (possibly stopping at many midpoints), placed into the forecourt tank, sold, and then used by you - the driver. I only ever fill up half way as a result.

Im not getting up myself, Im saying youre speaking out of place. I wouldnt tell you not to go to Germany because its crap for example because Ive never been there! All Im saying is drive one first - then maybe pass judgement!

Do you have the ECU? Have you driven a Cup with the new ECU installed? No and No Im guessing! How about trying one before you comment any further on what is and what isnt a waste of money.

The thing is that power cannot exist without torque in an engine. If you can get the torque to never drop off no matter how far you rev, you will make more and more power the more you rev. So you could have 150 lb/ft of torque and make 1000bhp. You would have to rev to around 38,000 rpm...

Well I think if youre gonna go in the gravel you may as well do it properly! About 50 metres past your braking point, turn in hard and apply the handbrake. This tends to work quite well. ;)

Have a look at the wastegate actuator. There is a very thin hose that connects to this coming from either the inlet manifold, or just after the compressor housing. Does this have a split or any damage that may cause an intermittent problem? Do you have a boost guage? When the hesitation...

But youve given a different explanation to Ben!

I got mine on 26/09/2002 (was the 7th order placed). Live in Croydon, Im 20 and pay £1600 with 2 years NCB. Done about 5000 miles and only 1 modification, but its a good one!