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I fitted a 1/4 bsp fitting i had and it went on fine. Need to double check now as ive not got that far with mine yet.

Remember the size is the internal diameter of the fitting so the od of the 1/4” fitting will be around 13mm. Look up a chart of imperial fittings on the net and you see the major and minor thread diameters for each.

More wise words. You don't want another potential leak point on such a tight schedule.

Turbo connections are 1/4" bsp or npt but either will fit with some plumbers tape. The water lines are 25mm or 1" off the heater matrix and 13mm or 1/2" to the turbo so you'll need a 1" to 1/2" unequal tee.

It's a reducing tee you'll need. I'll check the sizes if you are unsure for the tees.

Feed off 1 and return to the other, simples. ;)

Should be able to. They're nothing special so maybe a machine shop or hydraulics/pneumatics parts shop?

Great car mate, been in good hands for years and he never did give me a shot! :(

I have two 1/4" bsp to 1/2" hose tails that would have done the job if I'd known could have put them in with the down pipe.

Needs to connect to the boost side of the turbo or inlet mani. If you're not using the water feeds then I would block up but personally for what's it's worth, I would just connect up the feed and return to the heater matrix lines. Very easy to do.

Very good progress mate and glad the down pipe worked out. :approve:

Very true, I had to do that with mine as it was obstructed in it's standard position.

Think they are straight on but can check tomorrow on my old cup engine with the 225 manifold. Just so you are aware though, the inlet diameter is 42mm but this is still enough for 300bhp and I think is capable of more. I made a simple adaptor plate to mate a megane 1.6 cable tb to the manifold...

Want a swap with a megane 225 mani?

I thought that at first but the throttle pulley hits it too.

Edit, make a spacer for it? Might have that off you for the right price if you're not using it.

If it's not lined up the box won't go on so you'll find out soon enough. Once you get it on, just bolt it up and m ake sure the fork is located correctly.

I use a socket that fits snuggly and then line it up by eye. You only need a clutch alignment tool if you can't see the bore.

Re: 172 Cup track toy! Got my new alternator fitted the other day but even with a jump off my Impreza the battery was too flat to even turn the starter motor. So yesterday my new ctek mxs5.0 battery charger arrived and got it connected up and left to charge overnight. Tried again this morning...

The belt is on the wrong way. It should run flat along the bottom between the ps and the crank then over the alternator and under the water pump. Chip- beat me to it but it's not the way renault say it should be routed.

fair play indeed then! :hail:

Think you're right actually. Been working on a megane head too long now. :o

One usually goes to the inlet hose to the throttle body and the other to the carbon canister. Not sure why though.

Think I would have thrown the towel at that one so hats off to you sir.

Just be careful when putting it back on that the clutch fork is correctly positioned on the release bearing or it won't work.

Sticks out no further than any other turbo conversion and as the actuator is to the top there shouldn't be any issues.

5 minute job to take the box off and as chip says, I would be checking the clutch anyway as if it needs changed, now is the time to do it.

You need a 1/4" ratchet with an extension.

I would, yes. But mine was to be used on track and I didn't want to worry all the time about oil temps. A road car may be different but I still probably would.

Space was an issue for me too so opted for a 200mm mocal laminova cooler so using coolant rather than air to cool the oil. Fitted it to the bottom rad hose and takes up very little space so was ideal for this conversion. Also less of a risk of something puncturing the cooler and dropping your...