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I'm looking at spa or stack for mine. I use defi in my Impreza but very pricey.

Get boost!

Thanks mate, very helpful stuff in your thread!

Anyone resprayed their stripped out interior with rattle cans? How many cans would it take and do you get a decent finish?

Battery should be fine once it gets a good charge with the new alternator. Get it fitted and take it for a good run.

It won't last long once it's gone. I just replaced mine and at first it would still run, then sounded lumpy, then wouldn't start, then wouldn't jump start then i gave up. This was all in the space of about 10miles. Need to get it replaced ASAP once it's gone.

Are you talking cable or DBW? I use a megane 1.6 tb on my turbo setup but it is only 48mm. The Clio 172 is 60mm. I had to make an adaptor plate to fit it on to a 225 manifold so I don't think it is suitable. Got a spare 172 cable tb if you need one.

Maybe but done it quite a few times with no issues so can only speak from my experience.

If e had a few purchases on here that the seller has been very economical with the truth but largely they have been ok. I would only pay cash or bank transfer if I seen the goods in person and PayPal for everything else. PayPal has resolved a couple of eBay disputes for me.

Far too low for track.

I was always told to use petrol and works for me.

I love the sound of it on the gear change. Sounds totally different now though as it's turbo'd! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-qcz4FRMkHg&feature=player_detailpage

No. Take the weight off the mount by jacking it up then remove the upper part of the mount that is bolted to the engine. Once this has been removed you can remove the actual mount bolted to the chassis. Put the new one on and then assemble in reverse.

Knockhill is definitely one of the most lenient of circuits. Must be cause its in the middle of no where. It was loud but not near the loudest car at any trackday I've been on. Some of the evo's and scoobies with 600hp and unsilenced side exit exhausts shake the pit wall on their way past.

The engine bay will change slightly with the new turbo set up but cheers for that. :approve: This is the catch tank I use. It has 1 inlet, 1 outlet and a breather. I haven't used the outlet so put another filter on it...

I'll post up a drive by on a trackday at knockhill with my yozza and decat when I get home, can't do Youtube in work. :mad: Sounds good I have to say!

New hose used with no inlet for the breather.

Just remove the caliper to wind the piston back. Spin the wheel when it's off to see how it spins on its own.

If you try to spin the wheel with the jacked up a bearing issue would make the wheel spin rough but it wouldn't stop immediately unless the bearing was completely goosed and if that was the case you would feel movement in the wheel when pulling from side to side. With a caliper sticking, the...

If in doubt, make a small heat shield for it but I'm sure it would be ok.

Where's that from. I'm looking for 1 too.

Yeah, it's on my cup but I used it round the master cylinder and brake lines like this.

That's a reason I have 2. They only blow crank seals if the filter blocks with oil hence the reason of the catch tank to separate the oil mist from the air.

No probs mate. :)

Biggest thing that degrades oil is contaminants from the engine caused by driving when the oil is not up to temp. So lots of short journeys from cold will degrade the oil faster than longer journeys with the oil at temp.

At idle the breather is sucking air in so hence why not to leave it open. Under load it will pressurise and so blow to wherever you plumb it to. A baffled catch tank is best as the oil mist hits off the baffles and drops out the air rather than having a clear route to the filter to vent...

2nd hand cat would be the cheapest option then. Decat does make it louder.

I only used nimbus behind the manifold area. Rest was left off.

A duff bearing will cause a lot of heat to build up on the hub and disc as well.

Sounds like the bearing to me. Remove the caliper and spin the wheel and see if it sounds rough. Maybe the seal to the rear of the bearing is missing or not seated correctly and has let water in causing it to fail.