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Who would do the work for you? Are you looking for a drive in - drive out thing or would you fit the engine yourself?
I have a spare bottom end as I need the head but your head would work on my build. My engine needs the belt done but that's no biggy, I could do that for you.
PM me if you're...
Ph1 sender allows a return to the tank which is needed to get the best out of a fpr. The pump is no better but I replaced mine with a walbro 225lph pump.
If you get an uprated fuel pump, fpr and return line you will have a more consistant fuel supply which is better for boost. You can do it without for a low boost conversion but for high boost I wouldn't. The standard fuel setup would not be up to the job IMO and you would not want to run lean...
Others things to look at getting are fuel pump, fpr, ph1 fuel sender, fuel lines, turbo map sensor, oil cooler, lots of heat shielding, air filter, gauges and battery relocation kit. This little lot if you don't have any of it will come to about £1k depending on spec and if bought new or not...
Are you using the same brakes on the front as on the rear? This will cause locking up issues even though you have more weight in the back than most. I would replicate the V6 model if I were you.
172 Cup - No abs, lighter, looks better, more castor, no aircon, turinis as std faster and wider track.
Ph1 - front looks good.
I'd defo go with the cup especially for track use and i used a cup on the road for 8 years so know they are good at everything except snow!
Shouldn't mix coolants as they can react with each other so you should stick to the same type.
Also has corrosion inhibitors which protect your engine block and other components.
What work is required to fit a diff and what would cost to get a diff fitted to a gearbox?
Fancy getting a diff this year and a budget figure would be good.
Mine wasn't great on a cold start but I had no ICV connected so this was an issue. Mine needed a small tweak to get it right which I will get when its back down with the new turbo setup.
The arch roller looks the business. With 30mm spacers and with your wheel offset you will have gained about 40mm track on the rear if my calculations are correct. That must be one of the widest rear tracks in a clio. Good on you for going that extreme. I have the spacers cut, just need them...
You need to remove the shaft from the hub completely then it should just pull out from the box with a bit of maneuvering.
Make sure you drain the gearbox oil from the passenger side before removing it.
If you don't mind me asking, how much did that little lot cost and where did you get it. I need similar for my car and not sure how much it costs.
With the winter activator, what temps can you spray at?
Cause your original ecu isn't controlling the fueling any more, it's your Omex that's doing that.
Sounds like you're a happy chappy now mate. Well done on the build. Get a vid up soon! :D