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The poly bushes are pressed into the renault mounts. Yours will be the twisted type, you can use your old dogbone mount for the new polybushes but as said they are not recommended on here much.. Undo the 4 bolts on the drivers mount and pull the engine forward then tighten. See if that...

I travelled 4 miles when mine snapped off. It is way too loud and you could risk damaging your hearing. Has it snapped at the centre section or the bend over the axle??

Does the car drive ok?? Reason for doing test?

Theres a few on here who have tried the powerflex ones and its caused more damage as they dont allow much movement. Best to try and get the renault one, they are easy to fit underneath the car.

Cant beleive they are using wd40, especially on the 172/182s as the bay gets really hot even there and it will soon be all gone.

Is it now officially a recall Alex?? Ive had the letter but chucked it because I have always greased the catch with high melting castor grease way before all this came about.

No its not a straight swap unfortunatly. The 172 brakes are from a Laguna. You will prob need 172 hubs and bits to go with it or get some brackets made up. The 1.2 brakes are not that bad, my 1.2 8v had the same front brakes as a williams.

Renault recommend they are changed each time. Remember this 1 nut holds the whole wheel and brake disc onto the car.

For the 172 renault now sell an improved clutch cable that has weights on the end to reduce vibration. Well I thinks thats what they're for...

I think the inlets are interchangeable but some need a little modification. The plenum which you are looking to polish is best swapped with a car that has the same engine number, e.g. if yours is F4R 730, swap with another 730. Not sure why Renault kept using different ones.

It should be fine then, you just need to fill the hole.

Cats are worth a fair bit in general due to the expensive materials inside them. Theres a bloke near me who pays good money for old ones.

The rear mount with bracket - 7700424339 £17.35 The other mount is 7700424341 £6.50 Cat to centre gasket 7700823540 £1.75 Cat to manifold gasket fixing kit 6000073668 £12.20 Prices have gone up a little but there not far off. Which screw do you need the mount to car or exhaust to mount? Id...

Bargain, have you got a link for this brake international place??

After starting it do you notice that the trip computer resets itself?? Thats a good sign the battery is on its way out. Take your pick from here: http://www.carbatteryshop.co.uk/mb-CLIO-1.6-1.8-2.0-Petrol-1991-I533.html

£275 is right for the renault centre box/section. If you go for that make sure its the right one as many dont realise the ph1 centre section is longer

Is it normal to put them before the cat??

What car is it?? A bit crap of them just replacing the clutch.

Yeah its just before the cat so it should be there. Can you see the wiring loom for it anywhere??

Try GSF. They sell the renault ones for a bit cheaper(which inc bearings and abs rings). Last time I bought some they were £135.

As above, it should last until you are due a clutch change where a new clutch kit (inc bearing) will sort it.

That doesnt look like a normal lambda sensor. It almost looks like a spark plug. :eek:

All clio IIs at the front are cable and the rears (if 5 door) are rod.

If the engine was warmed up but it was limited to around 6700-6800 could be possible coolant temp sensor fault.

I seem to remember there being 2 oil change guides??

On a 172/182 the fan comes on at low speed if the coolant temp reaches 100c, (or will stay on constantly if the air con is turned on). When the temp gets down to 96c it will turn off. If the temp reaches 102c the fan comes on at high speed, then low speed at 100. However I beleive the 172cup...

Not on most mk2ph1s and 172s.

As above, in this case if the clip has broke you need a new metal clip asap. Theres a bloke on ebay that sells them. Dont use jubilee clips as theres not enought clearence. Plastic ties wont last long if you plan on going over 55mph. If the gaitor is split you can get a new gaitor kit from...

If its underneath youll need some decent torx keys, I borrowed some to put in my torque wrench as they were very tight to remove the shield. You will also need a deep socket to get at the nut.

To change the mounts you have to take the strut out, while its out best to change the top bearing aswel. Removing the whole strut is fairly straight forward, you can use a lowering guide for tips. However if you mean the very top bit you see in the engine bay, there not much point changing...