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Always worth a try. Cheapest thing first and all that!

This sounds like the key fob battery to me. Mines been having similar issues and a new key fob battery solved it. It cant have been disabling the immobiliser properly.

Looks in really crap condition for the mileage. My 111,000 mile PH1 looks almost new inside no wear on the seats like that. Suspension also looks really high for some reason

For anyone else with this problem try changing the battery in the key fob!!

12v battery although they normally peak around 14v

Ah right!

Temp sensor only goes to just below halfway anyway doesn't it?

Could be but its reasonably new.

Car has done this a few times lately. When I first get in and start the car it fires first time BUT the revs normally drop right off and it stalls. Then the second time it starts perfectly. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Very impressive

No problem, You have to point out the obvious to some people on here!!

Outer ring should come off without undoing the inner nut. Best way to loosen them is to get a flathead screwdriver into one of the grooves and then hit it anti clockwise with a hammer.

Konis and Eibach springs are a good setup if you don't want to go for the full price of fully adjustable coilovers. They also wont have to be setup.

Mines the same on my PH1. I can't see how it can go any higher as like you said its touching the heat-shield. Has anyone got a pictured of one installed higher on a PH1?

It will improve handling if done properly, why do you think sport models of all cars have a wider track and then race cars have an even wider track?

not sure

Wider track on the front would be better on a FWD

Yes the sport rack is hydraulic

That's still not fitted right you shouldn't be able to see the exhaust and hence why its called a 'stealth'.

Should be no need to swap the ECU. Just drop the replacement lump in. HOWEVER you would be an idiot not to do both belts and tensioning kits as well as replace the clutch while its all out.

There's a butterfly bolt on the front of the box. Unscrew it and fill it through there. The oil needs to be level with the bottom of that hole.

I'm in disbelief!

I would say its just the weather and getting used to the car. My car feels really quick some days and others it just doesn't.

You can get high temp silicone sealant from halfords or a motor factors most of the stuff Ive seen is made by loctite.

I did it myself so it only cost parts which come to around £50 for both the inners and outers for both sides.

Saw you this morning. I did beep my horn but you seemed to be in a world of your own!

Inner track rod ends was what was causing my clunk. By doing the usual 3 o'clock 9 o'clock wheel play test It was very hard to tell if they were worn. You need to get someone under the car with there hand on the joint as you wiggle the wheel to see if they can feel any movement. OR take the...

Your be very lucky to get 8bhp top end but if he's a decent mapper you should get a good chunk of power and torque midrange. If you want to save some money do a search for RSTuner. You basically map the car yourself with a pre-written calibration.

As above also don't expect to gain much from a remap other than a bit of mid range

mine sits just below mate and I've had a new sensor. I think the scale on the ph1s is slightly different