How To Remove Compbrake Topmounts?

[Rob]

I did ask before but got no real answer...

I never fitted these so I'm pretty clueless.

Do you have to undo the top large nut, then undo the "body" with a cspanner?

Also, what can I expect to find underneath? Anyone got a pic not fitted?

Pic:

 

[Rob]

No one? Really?

 

[nathanH]

I presume, its undo the centre nut - drop the strut out, C spaner to remove the collar and remove from underneath.

 

[Yellow Dave]

take off wheel
unbolt strut from hub
remove the large lock ring with the c spanner from the top mount
remove strut from car
fit spring clamps
remove central 1" dia nut (air gun probably needed, did for mine)
remove top mount
remove spacers
you'll then be left with the strut, spring and spring hat, you then just need to fit in reverse order or fit the OE top mounts.

They're fairly easy to remove as long as the big lock ring hasn't ceised on

 

[Rob]

Dave, does that central nut not have to come off first? the big bugger? Because I couldn't even move the outer "ring" with a c spanner whilst it was on there.

I've got coilies too.

I've fitted lowering springs to my non sport before myself, so I know the standard setup, but its just the setup of these weird compbrake things I haven't a clue about.

 

[caister]

Outer ring should come off without undoing the inner nut. Best way to loosen them is to get a flathead screwdriver into one of the grooves and then hit it anti clockwise with a hammer.

 

[AlexG]

Id say remove the big outer nut too. Then the whole strut should just pull through from underneath.

C spanners are crap, get some large grips or turn them with a screwdriver and hammer as said.

 

[Rob]

I tried to move it with some stilsons, but it feels really stuck, could it be more difficult with the car on the ground? i.e the pressure on them? So easier with the car in the air?

I think I'm going to try removing it without removing the big top nut first, then if that fails, off comes the top nut and I'll see where I get.

Cheers so far, I'll post again when i get REALLY stuck. lol

 

[MonkeyKnifeFight]

both outer ring and top nut play a big role in removing the suspension but!! its well documented that these topmounts are a nightmare to remove. You'll need to get some leverage on the C spanner to get that outer ring off!!

 

[Rob]

I know they play a big role mate, but what order to things have to come off in?

I'm going to just f**k 'em right up in the end, get the grineder out or something. lol

 

[Gally]

What's wrong with them mate? I might be fitting some!

 

[Rob]

If you do, I'll come over and confiscate the FRP myself.

The size of the "knock" I now have coming from them is un-true.

Brake, turn, accelerate hard, go over a bump, KNOCK.

Now I can't say how hard the car was driven before me, but I really haven't given it hell, so I don't expect it tbh. Very disappointed.

 

[172Ben]

Worst mounts ever IMO.

You need to undo the top nut, then undo the locking ring, and then just slid out the strut.

They look like this -

 

[Gally]

Hmmm! Thanks mate, money best spent elsewhere!

Hope you get it sorted mate, do you have OE ones to go back on?

 

[sideways danny]

dont touch the nut until the strut is out. JUST remove the outer lock ring with either a C-spanner or a drift and hammer if necessary

 

[Rob]

Drift?? Why don't touch the nut Danny? Getting so much conflicting advice!!!

lol!

Ben - Thanks a lot for the pic, brilliant.

Gally - I've got to buy some, £38 a side for the "kit" from my motor factors

 

[sideways danny]

the nut being on is holding the spring in compression. If you remove it, the spring will go ping and extend to full length. Makes less difference on coilovers, but still shouldn't do it.

a drift, as in something you hit with a hammer, like a blunt chisel or similar

 

[Rob]

That nut? Seriously? What a terd design

Cheers for the advise, a drift, never heard that before, lol!

One last thing, what stops the bottom of the mount from spinning when I try to undo the top?

 

[sideways danny]

leave the car on the ground and the weight will hold it still. Prob want to loosen the center nut a turn at the same time too, just dont remove it yet

 

[Rob]

Cheers mate, really thanks. I'll report back when I've fucked it up.

 

[Yellow Dave]

The central nut holds the top mount onto the strut and keeps the spring in place. It is NOTHING to do with removing the strut from the car. This is the big lock ring round the outside that you need the C spanner for. Some people thought it wise to use locktite on the threads so this may be the problem

I had absolutely NO troubles with mine once fitted, driving or then removing.

 

[Rob]

The only thing that was getting me, was that it looked like that lock ring wouldn't come out without removing that nut, but if you say it does, then fair play

Cheers.

 

[sideways danny]

i'll do you a step by step guide

1. unscrew lock-ring

 

[Rob]

Picking up my standard mounts tonight, so i'll maybe give it a crack saturday day.

 

[sammyhale22]

I`ve been using similar solid strut tops to these, not the same but similar design for over a year now. Never had any problems. The main mistake people make is to put rubber washers or O Rings between the chassis and the mount itself. The rubber breaks down over time and then there is play + knocking. Mine were just tightened up hard against the chassis.