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Just reset the ECU as its had a new lambda sensor so maybe its trying to learn new idle values?
The other problem is I had the bright idea of messing with the idle screw on the T/B when I cleaned it to see if the butterfly was catching the inside :mad:. Highly doubt I got it back to where it...
I've just done that and it seems a bit better but the engine has cooled down now so wont know properly until tomorrow.
I've spent the last week combating the T/B sticking and now that's solved the opposite is happening and the revs are dying!! :dapprove:
Has started doing this today and I'm pretty sure its the ICV but want to check if it could be anything else first!
Car returns to idle so quickly that it almost stalls but then picks itself up again. If if braking for traffic with the aircon on when I dip the clutch to come to a stop the revs...
Did this today. Wasn't quite as bad as I thought it was going to be but the inner ones were a pig. I managed to get them clamped back up using two set of mole grips.
Has made a noticeable difference though as the ones on there were well past there best.
Might get round to replacing these this weekend. Just wanted to know any tips on how to fit them apart from allot of swearing!?
1) Should I do the inners with the outers still fitted?
2) Should I remove all 4 then fit the middles then the outers?
3) Should I do one side at a time?
cheers
Could be a few things. From what you have described I would edge my bet towards the coolant sensor as the spluttering was the exact problem I had when mine was faulty. Bad mpg could be the front lambda sensor. You need to run some diagnostics on it really if you know someone with a reader or an...
This needs to be done by a specialist and you need to make sure you have the full cambelt kit and the full auxiliary belt kit done using the renault locking tools. Your only in Didcot so you could easily travel to JMS in Uxbridge to get this done properly.
As others have said I would say for the amount of wear on that disk that the caliper is sticking/seized which has probably caused it to heat up and crack. Mine have been on for 10k and look brand new.
I'm sure theres a guide in the members section on how to fix this (or at least a thread on it somewhere) I didn't really pay much attention to it as my car doesn't have climate control.
The rear view mirror has no seal. It's stuck to the inside of the windscreen. Maybe your climate control fan (which I think is located above the rear view mirror) is getting noisy
What do others think of yellowstuff pads. I used them on the track and they were pretty good. They are eating there way through a second set of disks though.
I know they may not be up to the standard of the more expensive pads but they seem fine for fast road and the occasional trackday.
It's hard to tell from the pics TBH. It does look similar to a 172 T/B. It's weird that theres only one hole.
I dont suppose its from a LH drive sport?
If you remove the canister and the purge valve the light doesn't come on so they are talking rubbish.
Mines been removed from the car for 2 years and although the ECU reports a fault it does not display it on the dash.
It has to be something else causing the fault.