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99% sure its M20, is for the mk1's and i can't see them changing it

Can you have a check for me?

One point with spacers, obvously they put extra stress on everything, especially shite on mk1 clios are the wheel bearing design, so you'll go throguh them even faster than before

Ideally you don't wanna be much over 5-6 bar....certainly this is true for the mk1's, dunno how 172's vary?

Does Cliosport still get Greenlight insurance discount??

As above I've used 15mm hubcentric before, but the wheels tended to resonate at higher speeds, was good and you could notice the difference. Then got williams widetrack and was alot better, you you look around and bide your time you can get widetrack set up for £100-£150. You'll need shocks...

Local scrappy, easy enough to find clios without front end damage Failing that Matbrown or Winston

Sounds like my car that....no seized bolts anyway lol

You've got a mk1 ph1 clio on 30K!!!!!!!!! Sure its not been round the clock lol

I dunno i've seen some f**king rusty subframes. As edde says in theory its an easy job, in reality, esp if your subframe is badley rusted enough to fail the MOT it will be a b**ch, esp the bolts that hold the rear of the subframe

I was always told furthest away first

IF the camber does change you'll be cornering better, dis advantage is that you go through tyres a tad quicker I'm running stupid negative camber on mine and it corners like its on rails

If you're in Telford, Yozzasport are prolly your best bet, local too

one option is to pathch it up with a bike puncutre repair kit. if you wanna replce it, cut the cable tie on teh linkage and putt the boot back and undo the 13mm headed nut in there, remove gear linkage, making sure you keep the plastic washer type thingy and the spindle from the middle, and...

They are a completly differnt tyre!!! The T1's are ROAD tyre The R888's are a semi slick RACE tyre Although road legal they will be shite untill warmed up, esp in the wet, and they won't last long on the road. Will be much better on track cus thats what they are designed for, you'll find...

You will notice an improvement, although at high speeds they can cause the wheels to resonate, oh and you'll chew through wheel bearings

to do it propperly alot, thats why bodyshops are so expensive, the cheap shite ones are just that shite, ideally you want a nice HVLP gun (£100+), but its ALOT harder than rattle cans, main skill is setting the gun up correctly

What car is it on, on the mk1's this is just a boot to keep the shite out, usually got a bit of grease in it

mmmm mangled clutch...and shot to f**k bell housing lol

as in the linkage to the gearbox gear selector?? If so this isn't filled with oil

Don't forget to disconnect your battery, or you get sparks lol There are loads that fit, although on some they can be a b*****d to get in/out think i'm running a laguna one on mine at the mo

oh use normal castrol dot 4 or super dot 4 if you track it

drilled are s**t, they crack around the holes or can do, as are greenstuff, as you are experiencing, get pagid or ferodo pads Grooved discs will wear any pads faster

Pay the extra for a proper job, could end up costing you loads more if it goes tits up

I chewed one up in 5k, thats 5k of road miles too

Right, get your one man kit and set it up, with pressure from the tyre, don't touch the pedal, its not necessary, f**k the number of pumps thats a shite method, you want it till you get no air bubbles, but give it a while cus i can run clear for a bit and then you'll get a few more bubbles. do...

Yup, npot being funny but this is what happens if you try to work on your car wihtout knowing what you are doing, could have ended up stacking it with loss of brakes

Thats if you have ABS, he doesn't, always start furthest away from master cylinder/ABS, ABS is on n/s of the car, master cylinder is on o/s of the car, and you always do one complete system, and then the other

You're right, he is wrong, start from furthest away from master cylinder in you case nsr, osf, osr, nsf. If you use the one man pressure bvleeding kit don't really need ot be pumping the pedal, coudl be you are sucking air back up inot the system?? There isn'tr a 3 man method, the std method...

Yeah, you never noticed it before? Don't take that for anything, usually wrong, check you oil regularly with dipstick