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Afaik most non-genuine filters have less filter 'particles' (or whatever they are called) therefore don't filter oil as well.
If the engine failed under warrenty you can be sure they would claim you fitted a non-genuine filter thus voiding the warrenty.
As above don't get bent over, they've charged you silly money for a far below standard job no way can you let them get away with it.
Tell them to get a new head, use a proper headgasket, replace the rounded bolt etc or you're taking them to court, don't settle for bs excuses because as soon as...
I tried finding one but couldn't, I bought a regulator for mine a while back as it had all the symptoms of it being gone, but after I changed it turned out it was the stator inside the alternator. I saw a note on the valeo service page saying your alternator has an internal regulator not sure if...
What makes u think its the reg? Have you checked the voltage across the battery etc? You can normally buy the reg seperately but tbh you are probably better off buying a new alternator as it could be something else inside broken.
Looking at getting rid of the valver and getting something bigger and boring eg a vectra, was looking at a 2.0 litre 16v gls, lot slower than the valver, was quoted £600 more??? Its a lower insurance group etc but Im getting quoted a lot more than for the valver, whats going on?
This happened to mine it was the heater resistor under the scuttle panel. Access from the drivers side need to remove windscreen wiper motor which is only 3 bolts, then you can see the resistor clipped/screwed onto the side of the blower with a plug in it facing you, that has most likely burnt...
Just to point out your car will already have a dump valve fitted as standard but its a re-circulating type. You want to fit an atmospheric type ie it vents the gas into the 'atmosphere' hence you get that whoosh.
If your car has a turbo don't see how its chav??
gd effort normally just take mine to a local garage! hubs shouldn't take long to re-fit, make sure you jack both sides of the car up otherwise re-fitting the strut bolts can be difficult.
Had a £22k claim few years back, very glad everything was declared or that could have been out my pocket!
Its a shitter but tbh mate Id just bite the bullet and pay the extra.
If alternator is fine then have a look at this:
http://www.williamsclio.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24323&highlight=current+drain
guide for testing for current drain ie if something in your car is draining the battery when ignition is off.
Ok mate haven't got a black cable in the engine bay? Doesn't it earth through the body anyway?
Also I've just fitted a new voltage regulator to the back, so the yellow and blue cables should both be going to the same side?
Are you def 100% its the cambelt? Wouldn't you hear crashing/banging/nasty noises when the pistons collide with the valves if the cambelt had failed and caused damage?
Imagine its the same on your box as mine, so, front of the gearbox as in the side facing the front bumper, probs about half way down by like a plastic plug which you undo by hand.
Tbh 120k with FSH id still be a lil wary, let alone with no history, stay well clear! Those engines get ragged and are 'performance' engines, not servicing one for 20K isn't going to be good and no doubt could lead to engine problems in the near future specially at that mileage!
Could buy it...
Think the regulator on the alternator maybe the wrong one as its constantly supplying the voltage at 12v doesnt change with revs etc, even with the old broken alternator it was charging at 16v so the wires are definately capable of it.
Yeah they all look ok might try changing the connectors on the battery terminals but can never find a good way of connecting all the bare wires onto the terminals? :(
Really pissing me off now, just changed the alternator as the voltage regulator was fcked, now its constantly charging at 11-12.5v doesnt change when rev'd etc, wtf??? tried a diff battery as well, any ideas??