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not too sure mate as I tend to do the work on mine myself. I would offer but I'm too busy and wouldn't want to bugger it up for you, lol. If you wanted a quick trip to glasgow theres someone over there I know of who would do it for you at what I would imagine woudl be a very reasonable price...

personally I would say you might be as well spending that on another car, unless the rest of the car is mint in terms of bodywork etc and you have done other work to it. As for the engine, they can be picked up for £50 in OK nick, but if you are looking for one quickly then you might have to...

not totally sure but I think so. I know the 16v and williams had one, but I'm not 100% about the RSi though I think it should have one. I know the 1.4's don't have it so the 1.2's won't have one either.

yours won't have a brake bias valve, the lower spec models didn't have one apparently.

Cheers Mr Billy, thats what I though it was but I wasn't totally sure. Big-Yin - Yeah I've got a haynes, but I don't know where it is just now as I have bothered to use it for the last few jobs I've had to do.

I was just going by what he said, when he mentioned the oil holes I wondered about it myself but as I don't really know for sure I thought I would check. All the other factors I tried just said that they didn't have them in stock and would have to order it in, whereas this guy could get it in...

Just off the phone to a local motor factors and when I asked about a rocker gasket for the clio (1.8 16v) he said he had two listed, one had 4 oil holes and one had 6 oil holes or something like that. Does anyone know which it is I would need? Thanks.

For the sliders can I just use any sort of general purpose grease? Also do I just undo the two bolts just behind the bits of rubber on the caliper? As I say I haven't done much with ragards brakes before, apart from removing the calipers and discs for other jobs, so I'm not sure of whats what.

I think he just got them from your photobucket account. Nice driving btw, a bit crazy with other cars about, but nice driving al the same.

btw, you would have everything you needed from the 16v - though you may need to use the 16v bonnet as I'm not sure if it would fit under the phase 3 bonnet, meaning you may have to pay for a re-spray if it's not the right colour.

Really depends on how cheap the shunted 16v is and if he can do the work himself tbh.

I don't know what the wheel brace with the car originally is like, but possibly because yours breaking might not be an isolated incedent? If loads were breaking then they would probably revise the design.

You're as well getting it changed tbh. Engines aren't expensive for them, about £50, but it's still better to get the belt done.

lol, I reckon if done properly you could just alter the inside of the bonnet in such a way that it wasn't noticable from the outside. Otherwise, you could just use it as an excuse to get a 16v bonnet?

According to Chris H (who knows what he's on about) you can modify the inside of the bonnet with a hammer, lol. He says that would give enough room for the engine but I'm not sure if the temps around the engine would become very high with that done. Nothing would need done with the arches.

Have a look HERE I had forgotten you also need the 16v fuel pump and to be aware that the ph2 ecu needs the plip key that goes with it.

You can re-se the RT box and drivshafts. You can also re-use the RT engine mounts but the top mount isn't as good on the RT as on the 16v so it would be best to change that. Other than that it should be plug and play TBH. I'm not totally sure about the exhaust system, but I think you should...

unlucky mate, but don't go milking it for whiplash etc if you've not got anything wrong. At the end of the day it makes no difference to the guy who crashed into you and it's people doing that sort of thing that pushes everyones insurance up.

Who's that with dan? Is that under your parents name, as it would be stupidly low in your own name at that age for a 172.

someone hasn't put washing up liquid in the coolant rather than the windscreen washers??? Unliely, but you never know, lol.

I'm not sure of the exact setup with the collant system, but if the water pump isn't working and no water is actually being circilated then it will get very hot even if not losing any water. One possibilty would be that it's leaking onto somewhere that it pretty much instantly vaporises, or...

I'm needing to get the cheapest insurance possible for a valver. I was getting good quotes with elephant, admiral and bell before I bought the 16v but now the prices have jumped up by around £200 since then. What insurance companies would you suggest I try other than those mentioned above...

cheers, I'll jusy get a policy and cancel within 14 days then. alan24 - I've tried that before but they only insure over 21's and I'm not sure if they would even give out an insurance certificate I could use for tax.

Does anyone know of any companies that will insure you for just a month? The tax has ran out on the 1.4 but I don't want to get a years insurance as I don't know yet if I will sell it within a few weeks or sell the 16v, but I need insurance to get tax and I don't want to declare sorn so i'm...

ah, it's a 1.2 16v you have. I had pressumed you had a Mk1 1.8 16v going by your profile. I'm not sure about Mk2's tbh so I'll let someone else help you out on this one.

what bushes??? When you say the gearstick wobbles how far does it move?

Most likely have to replace the rear dogbone mount. About £15 from a motor factors and easy to fit.

When I was working on the 16v recently I noticed that the brake discs were only clearing up on one side. The outside of the disc was clear of all rust etc but the inside only had a strip about 1cm wide all round where it had cleared. I've not really had a chance to drive the car yet but just...

Nice one. I know the felling though, I think I would on occasions if it wasn't for the fact I can't afford to get anyone else in to do the work, lol.

It'll almost certainly be the dogbone mount as shown above. You can get one for about £15 from a motor factors and a garage shouldn't charge much at all to change as it's a 5-10minute job at most with a lift.