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The important thing is that you still have the interior trim to put back when you like. I could never understand why strip a car and sell all their bits. Come selling time you have to sell the car for peanuts to get rid and your potential buyers are thin on the ground.

Your other option is to drill out the stud, it takes a long time and lots of drill bits. Best to take the caliper off then the brake disc and drill from the back as there is less metal to remove. if you can take it to an engineers workshop they would use a pillar drill and do it quicker...

After all that help! :butt:

+1. As far as I know all insurance co.s will only have the policy holder in the same name as the registered owner, unless it's a business.

You'll certainly know your car once you have done all these jobs. Take yer time and do it properly.

Thats the hard bit!!!!

I'm doing all four of mine now, all the info you need is on the forum, somewhere.

Yer tailgate won't close properly, just take some rope and tie the door down as best you can.

PS. there are 7 bolts, five at the front around the inlet tubes and 2 at the back either side of the coil

10mm. socket to undo the bolts. They are all visible on top of the engine. But be careful when you put it back, the threads are easily stripped.

You did say "1 side", £130 for both is about the going rate. Don't forget to recover the the washer/spacer on the inside of the hub and remember which way round it goes.

The normal 10mm. spark plug socket and is all you need, apart from removing the plenum chamber.

If you change only 1 side you will have odd and unbalanced brakes. Not the way I do it.

They normally make the noise when a load is put on them and as you say no play. Bite bullet and change both rears as they normally come with brake discs attached to them.

No spacer. Just a tapered washer as in that photo.

Hi Dave, Well I'm home now and just fitted my rear disc. It was as I first thought, missed out the flanged spacer as it was stuck to the old hub/disc, now fitted as described here http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=499027 Thats what the normal road car hub/disc looks like. Any...

There is not very much to see on GSF site. Only sure way to get the right one is take yer old un along to GSF, ECP or Reno.

I've seen cars advertised at silly prices in the past and when you ring them, they say "sorry I made a typing mistake, it should be £xxxx price" It's just to get you interested and hope you'll come up with some decent offer.

Just the Clio 172 Cup Road version.

16" 's are a good compromise of handling and ride and they are lighter. On a Cup 17"'s are really a horrible jarring ride.

None for sale there. How about a Cliosport Forum auction? I want some as well.

I have the same problem as you Dave, the hub/disc came from GSF. Did notice that the old flanged spacer is stuck to the old hub/disc but not had achance to try fitting it yet as i'm working today, I'll have another go this eve. The ABS ring was even on the old hub/disc but makes no difference as...

All 3 the same answer. Thanks.

:S Been searching for this and found 3 different values, anyone have the correct torque value? Ta.

OEcalipers are available at GSF (10% discount for Cliosport members), I recently bought a pair about £45 each with new bearings. They are Ingersoll/Bendix brand.

+1 Now come on W88 GRA, Brakes is very important.:slap:

I have both as well. It's horses for courses. The VRS is more of a Cruise missile, once it gets going it just pulls and pulls up to the max speed, very tunable due to the vast VW parts bin. Not to good in the handling dept. as all VW based cars are. The Clio Cup is a Air to air missile and a...

How about this one, no idea if it is up to par or anywhere near you but gives some idea what they cost. http://users.autoexposure.co.uk/pdfs/7656_030410042300.pdf

Looks like agood 10mm there, there ok but your disc is well scored.

Or old and worn pads.