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Agree about the headlights. Whilst it obviously won't add anything to the fun factor, it will look immeasurably better. Get a selection of wet and dry and some cutting compound, don't waste your money on a kit.

Definitely 172 then IMO Only visual difference is twin exhaust really. Can be replicated on 172 if it bothers you enough.

Would largely depend on the price difference between the two also. Is the 182 priced to reflect the cosmetic issues? Bubbling on an arch whilst far from terminal won't be pocket change to fix properly.

I'm thinking along similar lines tbh. Quite possibly a very small crack or split in a hose somewhere that's only leaking very slightly when under pressure. Would also explain the little white specs in my engine bay that look like dry coolant, although can't pinpoint exactly where they're coming...

In 10 years time all decent 172/182s will be worth a few grand, although 172 Cups and especially Trophy's will command a premium. Look at the values of 205 gti's, R5GTT's, etc now compared with a decade ago. There won't be another performance hatch like the mk2 Clio RS again which will only add...

Always a possibility I guess, although pretty rare as you say.

Nope, nothing underneath. Probably makes sense to replace the expansion tank cap for the sake of a tenner or so and see if that makes any difference. Cheap things first lol.

Hoping it's not that as had cambelt and water pump replaced a few months ago. I didnt have the thermostat changed though, so that's another possibility. Will give the whole engine area including hoses, etc a good eyeballing when I get chance, but so far other than the mystery white specs in...

Yeah, should be good. I'm sure I read somewhere that some people actually prefer the red/pink stuff over type D as it has better anti corrosive properties for aluminium. Got quite a few plans for the car over the winter, complete engine bay freshen up being high on the list. Thankfully I'm...

Yes. I've used it for top ups before now and it's fine.

Ideally I'd use Renault type D, which is green, however the garage that did the coolant change used the long life red/pink stuff. Once I've freshened up my engine bay over the winter I'll be getting a new coolant expansion bottle, so will go with the recommended type D stuff then.

Quick question. The coolant that's in there is long life red (unsure of brand). I've bought some long life red pre mixed for top ups if needed, however it's more pink than red in colour. Are pink and red coolant OK to mix?

Think I'm probably just suffering from 'old renault paranoia' lol.

I haven't actually topped it up, as is only marginally below the max line. Engine temperature sits happily at halfway too. The only sign I can see of any potential leak is those white specs, which could be dried coolant. Does seem plausible that the level could vary slightly due to outside...

I've noticed that the coolant level on my 172 has dropped very slightly over the last few weeks. It was on the maximum line when cold, and now its maybe half a centimetre or so under (checked on level ground). There's no cross contamination between coolant and oil that I can see by checking...

Thanks, looks pretty straightforward. I'm guessing I cut the plugs off the existing horn wires and just crimp on some spade connectors to attach to the horn button?

I've just bought a momo steering wheel to go on my 172 and am wondering what to do about my horn. I've read plenty of horror stories on here about the push button horn shorting out on aftermarket wheels, so the popular alternative seems to be a ph1 stalk. Obviously people have cottoned on to...

Yup, they start to go from the inside out where all the cr*p collects inside the arches. Rust inside the fuel filler cap area is common too unfortunately for the same reason.

Once you've had the induction roar... ?

Quieter? Lol

What a nightmare. I've noticed plenty of engines around on the FB groups, so they aren't in short supply thankfully.

Old thread, but glad I stumbled across it now. After fitting the Ktec kit to my car I put my hand underneath the silicone pipe and could feel the corner of that plastic bracket really pressing against it. Took a hacksaw to the bracket and cut the corner off and filed it smooth. No more rubbing...

Only when you boot it tbh. Nice burble otherwise. Am considering de cating it too.

Pro speed cat back.

Ktec website still knocking them out for just under £400. Ouch.

On reflection I think I will stick with the Ktec for the time being. I think I was maybe expecting it to be a bit louder, but I guess coming from a fatty kit the difference isn't that noticeable as coming straight from standard. Thankfully even though the silicone pipe is used, the filter I...

Always thought they had a twin cold air feed. Or I could be talking ? lol

Do you mean the cold air pipe that attached to the bottom? My standard box is missing the pipe as broke to bits when removing it for the fatty lol. Pretty sure you can run them without the pipe attached though, probably get a touch more noise?

You'd have thought Ktec would have designed the fit a little better tbh, particularly for what they cost new ?

Yeah, I really love the induction snort. Been reading through a couple of old threads about the Ktec silicone pipe wearing where it's such a tight fit in the ecu area. Apparently there is also some kind of plastic bracket and bolt underneath it too, but I can't be ars*d taking it off again to...