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No suspension works straight out of the box, when you have bump adjustment, rebound adjustment, spring rate, camber, castor, tyre friction coefficient, scrub radius, centre of gravity, etc etc to calculate, it would be a miracle if it was at its best with a days fettling
Nick at Pure will point...
Just buy them and sell them when you no longer need them, they always sell well second hand so you won't be stuck with them.
http://www.renaultpartsdirect.co.uk/product/renault-clio-172-182-cam-belt-fitting-tool-kit-f4r/
Not sure what you mean by shim, I can't think of any around the shaft assembly, if he means diff bolted in, then yes 03ish onwards had bolted diffs. If he means the near side inner boot then yes all mk2 sports use the boot bolted to the box style.
if the shafts are causing the issue your...
If all the mounts seem in good condition, the next step is strip down, the first job is to remove the driveshafts and check them for excessive wear, if they are ok it's box out and checking for hot spots on the flywheel face and clutch pressure plate and then warping or uneven wear to the clutch...
master cylinder has 4 ports on the 172 cup, non cups have 2 port as they distribute through the abs modulator valves,
172 cups have a rear axle compensator valve to reduce fluid pressure to the back brakes, non cups don't, they reduce pressure through the abs modulator.
some 172 (03 ish on) had...
sorry, the 129 has a circlip diff but a diff out of a 130 is bolted and is a straight swap,
so fit a diff out of a 130, or bypass all problems and fit a quaife atb diff,
if you are in the midlands area @NorthloopCup might have a 130 diff he will sell you.
the 130 has no speedo drive, as cars fitted with it read from the abs sensor, you'll need a 129 box with a 130 diff or better still chuck a quaife in there
Cheers matey, the pipes + fittings just look a little smarter than a jubilee clip,
here's what I ordered, 5ft of hose (but have half left).
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371046842558?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=640222847936&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT...
Power probe onto the small wire on the starter solenoid would confirm if its the starter,
also check engine/box to chassis earths (put a jump lead from battery negative terminal to the engine lifting eye).
it just softens the layer that has gone harder due to previous heat cycles so they are back on the money, or on new tyre just softens them a few points on the durometer but as you say it soon wears off.
Cellulose thinners painted onto the tread and cling wrapped for 24 hours works just as well...
http://www.corneringforce.com/setupanalysis.html good but is this where you went???
http://www.tracktorque.co.uk they're all good
http://www.bramracing.co.uk Brad is good and takes his time to get things right
Does the gearstick move excessively under throttle on/off, this shows engine/gearbox mount issues
I would have a guess at clutch friction plate or flywheel issue though
undo the 2 18mm bolts that connect the lower ball joint housing to the lower wishbone and swing it out of the way,
put the steering in full lock so the track rod is at full extension to make it easier too.
For the haters of the front end, you need to be a certain age to appreciate it,
I'm not the biggest fan of the speedlines, I preferred pro race 15'
but overall that looks like its been done properly:up:
Yey it's running,
New Cams should always have a run in period which involves keeping the revs around 2000-3000 for 20 minutes as the loading on the lobes is much higher at idle revs and can cause premature wear of the case hardening of the metal, as you can see in the photo above I coated the...