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Looking good Pete :) personally I agree with Jay, no fuel gauge, no oil pressure gauge just run the standard sensor with a light, no volt gauge as you can just run a light to come on if the alternator isn't charging and job done :) does your ECU have pit lane speed limiter as I notice no speedo?
Thanks Matt very kind :)
Haha yes its a bit of an improvement just got to hope it all works now lol!
I know what you mean I can't believe how far i've come in a year but i've enjoyed learning and now in theory I should be able to fix the car when it breaks (Hopefully a lot more infrequently...
This has reminded me I haven't updated the album for a while on the FB page. I have just put some pictures up of the wiring etc and anyone can see it even if you're not a Facebook user. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.325077030940735.78612.177111259070647&type=1
PS the recent pictures...
Thanks Mike :) Haha yes it should be! If its no quicker than last year after all the time and changes i'll be gutted lol
As Tony says I have registered for both series but the first race will be with the TT's at Cadwell
LOL :)
I'd be happy if I paid for what i've managed now tbf its much better than I imagined it would look!
Everyone said to me thats its not difficult and I didn't believe them but it isnt really its just time consuming
Just finished an epically long day of wiring :dead: Everything has seemed to be taking twice the amount of time it should do so I said today I wasn't going to sleep until I had finished the dash loom and was hoping for around midnight but just finished it now! Its a bit of a needed milestone as...
Shame to hear about the gripper Dave fingers crossed it turn up asap!
Plans sound good and completly understandable :) Look forward to seeing how it goes!
If you aren't able to go for a one dash does all then personally I would do what Tony and Jay did originally and ran the standard dash. You don't really need a dash 2 the only real advantage of them over a dash 3 or 4 is it has outputs and inputs for sensors etc. You would also need an interface...
Realistically with the engine out it should only take 2-3 hours. You would need a 172 cup master cylinder, 172 cup load valve (goes under the car near the rear beam), copper pipe, a few m10 brake unions and a few m12 ones too. Flaring tool for the lines and a pipe bender and p-clips if you want...
Christ I always forget how much stuff is in the normal engine bays! Don't forget the patch of heavy tar on the drivers side wheel arch (Below and to the left of the engine mount)
Would be rude not to get rid of the ABS while the engines out ;)
The UCH is the black rectangular box in the dash its also seen in that first photo I uploaded and is in-between my old switch panel and the fuse board/connector if you can see it
Also personally I would start with getting the rear beam checked to see how it stands and then shim to standard and gauge it from there. Depending on tyres, pressures, ride heights will vary the rear camber you would ideally run but start with standard and then you can gauge by tyre temp and...
Really? It's pretty common in the UK to set cars up for clockwise circuits obviously the main one that isn't is Rockingham but a top race team will be setting the cars up differently on each corner of the car with caster/camber different typically on the front. I know one of the suspension...
Yes did it all myself apart from the first couple of days being shown how to do the basics by Jay :) I had never done any wiring before so if I can do it anyone can! The most difficult thing is making it look neat and that take a lot of time.
UCH is Renaults version of a PDM (Power...