Search results

Yeah i like it that way too. Just a pair of brushed finish straight cut outlets. We shall see what happens though. Ive gone from an OEM cat & catback to a decat with centre silencer. So i need to make sure im happy first with whatever i do lol.

Wost case you can get a new one from Orbisoud but they'll charge you plenty for it.

Thats what i like about them ha.. you know me dude... im a bit mad :D

The probelm is, tyre performance is often subjective brake pads, what one likes, others hate. People go crazy for DS2500s and i think thyre awful, likewise i think R888s and NS2Rs work pretty good in the wet (not standing water obviously) others hate them. I've had great results on road and...

My wife agrees with you mate so dont worry, you wont offend me haha I just really like the no fuss motorsport look.

I use the Dewalt XR range Ash, have you looked at those? Should be inbudget and like much of the other kit, all batteries carry over to the rest of the range :)

My favourite would be if I could get a genuine Cup Racer one as they had just dead straight cut outlets and I like the “no frills” motorsport look. I imagine I’ll break the Clio Internet if I was to cut the outlets off a genuine Orbisoud system though. 😂

WZD has worn its BTM exhaust system for 8 years, and after removing it this morning, it’s practically as mint now as the day it was fitted. The BTM has only been removed as I fancy a change and have been intrigued by the hype that’s always surrounded the Orbisoud system. I have to say I’m not a...

Proof of what exactly? 😅 Joker 😂

Looking tidy Steve.

Big shout out to Tony @ VintagsUK for custom making me a pair of new decals. These are absolutely spot on and the silver decal is still an anti tamper VOID when removed. Some might say expensive for what may be considered as just stickers but well worth replacing the damaged items and getting...

Why not just get a centre resonator welded in? 🙂

Keep the one you like the most. Invest in your driving enjoyment as opposed to worrying about which would appreciate the most. Id keep them both. 😅

Ive got a banger, it’s green. 😂

Yeah Andy said it was running strong but didn’t really elaborate on that other than I would be losing a few from the tyres. Which I knew it would. I could have had it mapped as it was but I want to add some mods first and get it done in one go so I can feel the benefit of the changes

In all honesty, all I see is graphs from modified cars. What do these usually make with an induction kit and catback?

Well it’s not the 182 it should have been from the factory. 😅

Trying to find a good donor. 220 on a stock inlet? 😅

This does seem to be the way I’m leaning. I won’t lie, the stock valvetrain bothers Me somewhat if just dropping cams in. Valves and springs will have 125k of fatigue on them now and it’s not lost on me the though of it dropping a valve. So by time the head comes off, you wouldn’t not refresh...

Not really the right engine for my application. Paying a heap of money for a forged piston engine that will make its power on ITBs that I already don’t want to use. On ITBs I have no cold start, lose the AC, the cruise control etc.

Took WZD to see Andy @engine_dynamics today for nothing other than getting the car on the rolls for some baseline dyno runs. There really is no point attempting to get more from the little F4R until we know how healthy it is at the moment. Still the original motor on 125k miles now, and...

In all fairness, and call me cynical if you wish. My day job is running 8 chassis dynos with robot driven vehicles. These are some of the most advanced test cells in the industry and they’re not without their flaws. So much is so easy to manipulate, I generally don’t believe any of the chassis...

Yes to a degree, but so marginal. Not to the tune of the extra they’re claiming. Just my opinion 🤷🏽‍♂️

I can only see that upping the torque produced.

Because you only need an incremental increase in torsional stiffness to achieve the desired effect. Doing what you suggest would be far too stiff. This is why many who add the PMS rear beam stiffening kit do not have the need to run a rear ARB. :)

The beam is a torsen bean and therefore twists to allow each side of the cars suspension to compress individually (up to a certain point). The roll bar increases this torsional stiffness and subsequently reduces roll at the rear. Stiffening the rear alows more weight transfer across the front...

If youre going to a ball ache of fitting a 197 head, why would you then not incorporate the full VVT?

I saw, not sure i buy that power figure to be honest. Every other 182/197 of that spec runs 200-205bhp max.

Stock ECU won’t cope with a 197 head VVt though will it.