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I hope I get lucky too, must be a way of greasing the rear bolts ? I wont have access to a impact gun just going to use a breaker bar and try my best. Testing my memory (sorry I know I keep repeating myself): 4 main bolts, 4? bolts holding the steering rack on, 1 fiddly heat shield bolt and a...

Ok will do if it comes to that Fred. Any way to spray penetrating fluid on the rear bolts?

Looks great mate, I kind of understand what you mean about the exhaust tips, when there dirty they don't stick out so much, but you cant spend all that time on the paint and have dirty exhaust tips! get them clean!

Wipe it away, do an oil change if its needed and avoid short journey's. Had the same on my 1.2, I think I read its something to do with the poor breather system for the oil?

Havent decided which way ill approach getting the box out yet, but when dropping the sub/f on the passengers side, how much of a drop is needed to clear the box coming out? Am I right in thinking the drivers bolts stay in a few threads and the frame rests on the bolts, the the passenger sides...

Very tidy :)

A few of mine after "getting there" with the finish I thought. 248 by Guy Sampson, on Flickr 247 by Guy Sampson, on Flickr 250 by Guy Sampson, on Flickr

No these dials slip over the needles and sit over the top of the existing dials. The mileage screen is unaffected because there is a cut out and the screen just shows through. I have a guide in the guides section from when I ran them on my old 1.2.

Yeah they are bolted under each headlight with a few torx screws I think. Personally id get a working second hand unit of eBay but then you don't know if that one will go soon either. Maybe post a wanted thread I would think a few people on here will have spares lying around for a fair price.

Ok good, I guess the linkage can be un done another way, i.e removed from the box? will that matter if the box I get is undone that way? PM'd budgie to see where he is located and also "sitcom" rad in the above post is the A/C rad (auto correct f**ked up)

Its been a while since I did mine, but yeah the larger hole needs the inner part including the metal skin bashing out, same for the smaller part I think. If you search there's a guide somewhere I think but its fairly straight forward, just need a vice and a hammer.

After reading your first post if you get a clunk clunk clunk thats probably the dogbone. I polybushed my dogbone and replaced the upper gearbox mount and it improved things.

Upper gearbox mount is in theory dead easy, unbolt the main nut in the middle whilst the sump is supported with a block of wood and a a jack then also unbolt the 2 nuts either side, however once the 2 nuts are off the bolts are free to drop down which obviously isnt good. I had to squeeze my...

Ah, yeah possibly. If thats what you mean AJ thats just the projector to aim the light on the road. The bulb sits in behind it. Im running the cheap Hid direct bulbs myself, only changed recently but no problems yet. I made a little guide on changing the bulbs in my project thread...

What do you mean by the OEM bulb is huge?

How long did it take you roughly? The photos are helpful in terms of showing access, when the box went back in was it a case of getting the corners of the bell housing over the stud closest to the front of the engine then onto a jack until it meets the block? Also I've never done anything to...

Ah I see, 2 hours is a fantastic time! I see in your text guide you say leave the aircon rad in if its holding pressure, is it easier to just de gas it then take it off along with all the coolant hoses in the way I guess? Whats your method of getting the box off? is there enough room to...

As long as there genuine Renault? I've read OEM only, aftermarket never fit!

On the trophy I take it? Im not an expert but there isnt much to see underneath the handbrake cover if thats what you mean? Its underneath the car, then remove the heatshield to see the main part I think. My leveller was wonky meaning one cable is stretched slightly more, I guess if one cable...

Jack up the rear beam whilst the car in gear so the fronts hold the car etc, handbrake on then try and spin each rear wheel.

Heavy as well, but I like it, apart from in traffic. If I get round to changing the clutch and clutch cable I'll be interested to know if it makes much of a difference. The clutch pedal gets stuck in stages in hot weather.

Yeah they seem fine to be, considering the price from hong kong I might get a 6000k set as a backup / swap. Still interested in the washer though?

Anyone know about the washer?

Installed and working fine now. However a few questions. Initially after I turned them on for the first time the passenger side ( the one that was faulty before ) Didnt start up first time. I turned off and on and they both started. I took the starter back off and adjusted the contact inside...

Got them through (the 13.99 hids direct bulbs) They are exactly the same as the Hong Kong specials like below. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D2S-D2C-AC-35W-Xenon-HID-Day-Light-Replacement-Headlight-Bulb-3000K-12000K-/400362005992?pt=UK_Car_Parts_Vehicles_Automobila_ET&var=&hash=item5d376f65e8 But...

Clutch cable current price - £45.31... Ouch. Genuine only for the cable or has anyone managed to copy it properly?

Could it be the diff circlip broken and entered the box ?

Sounds gone tbh. A fair few gearbox threads popping up recently !

Parcel2go can be cheap but anything large I've sent with them has either been lost temporarily or tracking info not updated for week etc so always chasing it up (that was through yodel who are crap) Paisley I think was £35-40, which will probably be who I use when I eventually find a spare box...

Yeah there was, was there for years and then shortly after getting the 182 they closed down and flats are being built there! Annoying! Cheers anyway mate hopefully by the time I've got all the bits together I'll be more confident and pull it out one way or another!