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I'm not saying your wrong, but I'm struggling to get my head around that. Where does the camber come from if both wheels are fixed on the same axis. If one gained negative, surely the other would have to gain positive camber seeing as they are on a relatively solid beam....

So driveshafts hitting the subframe is an issue? This concerns me, although I'd have thought I'd have found it by now driving like a knob with softish standard dampers on what are quite possibly the worst roads in the UK. I left my ASTs I just purchased at the height they were already...

Have I missed something. How does camber, toe change with lowering on a trailing arm? Surely it's fixed regardless of height.

What's the deal with relocating the ECU? One assumes you'd just put it the other side of the bulk head, but is there enough cable to do it or is there lots of lengthening to do? I dream of a tidy engine bay now the car isn't on the road any more - PAS and Aircon are the first bit's I think...

The plug needs replacing, it has two little solder rings, so AFAIK, it's a case of cutting the plug, stripping a bit of insulation back, putting it together and heating it up. Once you've replaced the plug, it's two bolts out and two bolts in. Location is fiddly, but that's nothing a little...

I shall see if they have them on the shelf tomorrow - if not, I'll check them with the torque wrench regularly until I replace them.

I found that when drilling them out, the drill loosens them up enough to pull them out.

I'm sure that I got hub nuts with my last set of rear discs. I bought genuine this time and there were none. Should they be replaced when changing the discs? Keeping in mind that they were last changed only two years ago.

I've often considered one of these as a replacement for the C270, but I need to drive one! Lovely car.

Are you sure it's not just a relay you can hear? I think it's easy to see if the clutch is engaged or not when looking at the aircon wheel. My money is on it needing gassing, though.

Have you changed your crank sensor? If not, that's the first thing you need to do. Cough up for the official Renault one that comes with a replacement plug. It's around £60 IIRC and solved my issues last time. Thinking about it, it could probably do with a clean, if not I shall just re-do...

Indeed. You can pick up another engine for £200-400 generally. Do the belts, change the oil and rag the crap out of it.

Limited slip differential http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited-slip_differential

There was Nick's old Trophy on here that finally threw a rod at 180 something. I don't think I've seen one higher than mine, other than that. There's a highest mileage thread somewhere.

164k here, no significant oil usage and still pulling strong. The car had FRSH when I bought it at 134k and has had the oil changed every 5-10k since. Watch it fail at Brands on Friday now.

Have you got any pictures? How did you do the transition to the front carpet and how did you fix it? Thanks :)

If this is a money saving exercise, just get a 172. Cup unless you plan on changing/upgrading suspension. There's no real difference between them in my experience.

LSD Smaller steering wheel Smaller turning circle Completely in dream world, but double wishbone suspension!

I've seen a few people have added carpet to the rear of their stripped car. It seems like it tidies things nicely for me, and I'm hoping it might insulate against a bit of a the road noise for driving to and from track days. How have people achieved it?

Get the fault code read!

What BPY said - that seems to be the most common issue. It can be hard to reach - I used to find a few wiggles of the corrugated trunking that runs down the back of the block was sufficient to get it started. Eventually, I ended up replacing the connector when changing the starter.

Why did you undo the track rod to change the shock? Scary, though!

I think that's how they all are. AFAIK, they are machined off the standard diff and then modified to bolt on to the new diff.

I bought Autoglym Engine & Machine cleaner in the end - did the trick nicely! Thanks.

If you change your mind and ever want to lose the gripper box, drop me a PM. Can supply a standard box in return. As for the diff - surely it can't be much more expensive to just buy a CW from Gripper by the time you've bought a ph2 standard one and had it machined.

Hi guys, I want to give the arches/engine bay a bit of a clean up as it's got a bit mucky over the couple of years since I did it last. I want something that's going to aid shifting the dirt fairly easily with the aid of the pressure washer. It should be safe with rubber etc. as I don't want...

Some goodies fitted this week: AST Sportline 1s and a set of TD 1s with R888s. Aligned up and it's pretty hard - I can't wait to test them at brands on Friday, though! I'm glad I don't use this car on the road anymore. I found sliders and piston seized on the NS caliper whilst doing it...

Indeed - I'd be interested in the roll centre kit for standard 182 hubs.

Indeed. the 172 doesn't even use the sensor, that's why the rod/arm is missing. As I say, unless you're willing to cough up for another MOT where you could end up with the same issue, I'd call VOSA.

No idea if the Non-RS is different, but on my RS I did them until there was metal on metal, but I have poly bushes. Got a picture?