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i have removed all airbag wiring, heater wiring and stereo related wiring from 2 PH1 cars in the past month. On both occasions the wiring going to the handbrake warning light not being connected threw up the stop light on the dash. Are PH2's different i assume then?

needs to be plugged in, otherwise it will have the stop light on the dash permanently

I found in the dry on R888's it was pretty good with a tendency for the rear to be rather lively, i think a slightly softer spring on the rear will provide a more balanced set up. In the wet with the 110's on the rear even with the dampers on full soft it was too stiff in my opinion

I went from GAZ to AST on my track car an the difference was night an Day! I would highly recommend AST as a product but it's a bit hit an miss on the customer service and delivery time front. Due to that I considered switching (coilovers needed a service) to the similar AVO shocks but after...

That's the spring set up I used to run but going to try a softer rear spring this year

@s.mac that's a lot of cage

Those with weld in seat rails, have you managed to get the seat centred with the steering wheel? Pictures of people rails and side mounts would be helpful

@s.mac cheers fella :up:

Superb! Thank you very much

Cheers @vroomtshh If anyone else can measure it befor that would also be great so I can get the bloody thing finished!

Looking for a bit of information on the rear suspension turret part of the cage. The vertical angled part that sits over the strut too that the rear stays connect too...... Anyone know the diameter of the tube or have a cage they could measure? I have a cage to install for someone (he has lost...

An expensive option. not sure what mil-spec connector size i would need either

Nobody had the issue of relocating the main bulkhead plug for the loom?

I assume with the number of racers and people run full cages someone will have had the same issue i face now. i have finished installing an oreca race cage that has front strut supports. This has caused me to have to find a new location for the main wiring loom plug that normally resides behind...

Finished the stripped back interior loom, removed all wiring relating to heaters, airbags and stereo. Also finished removing all heater, air con and other redundant wiring from the engine bay loom

If its just for demisting, bin the lot and just get a T7 lightweight heater?

Excellent, time to get chop happy then. Already got the loom tape all stripped off and everything traced back Thanks for the replies @barnesautos Tackling the engine bay loom next weekend

Did you cut the wires? I want to cut them then trace them back an remove completely. Did it cause any issues? I also want to remove all heater an stereo wiring as these are deleted aswel Thanks

I'm currently stripping back the wiring loom on a PH1 track/race car. Looking to remove as many spare plugs/wires as I can Can I simply just cut all the wires to the AIrbag ECU or will this cause an issue?

As per JB21, on the road no diff is probably acceptable. On track though with low boost a diff is IMO 100% needed, a diff on a standard engine is a huge improvement let alone with boost

This is a good thread to show how simple it is to turbo these cars

Depends if your paying a body shop to do it or doing it yourseLf, it would last another few years dependent on passing an MOT

Repair for me, the cill panels aren't expensive. Plus a lot of shells will have the same issue so once you have repaired you know its solid

I know wavetrac are currently developing a diff for the JC5. I may hold out for that over the quaiffe/MFactory

I have indeed mate, i have checked and rechecked everything an cant find the fault. I shall get in the garage tonight or tomorrow an go over it all again, have a new set of rear and front lights to try now

Have an issue with the indicator fuse blowing. Only occurs when indicating left or using the hazard switch! Indicate right an there is no issue I have replaced the hazard switch, tried a new stalk and checked the wiring and as far as i can tell the wiring is fine. Checked all earth points an...

As per the extract below, as I understand it the cage has never complied due to not following the A pillar The front leg of the front rollbar or a lateral rollbar must be straight, or if it is not possible, must follow the windscreen pillars and have only one bend unless a windscreen pillar...

The problem is the cage has never actually complied from day one. so i would like to see what there argument is

easy, frees up cash and leaves you with a car that is still fun and lends itself more to trackdays

As per the link below? before committing to such work i would be having a scrutineer double check that the below amendment would suffice http://www.customcages.co.uk/news-room/msa-rule-changes-and-update-kits i am not convinced that is the solution as the front leg still does not follow the...