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sensor in theory is just an aerial. the majority can be swapped from one car to another

there were lots of trouble and info on coils for the 4 cylinder 16v engines inc production of modified coils. the problem in general has been less on the v6 and there isnt any modified coils. if you get them all changed even though just one has gone will be up to renault customer services. to...

the sleeves if fitted properley seal ok maybe the techy had a bad day

my mates ctr didnt kick mines arse in fact at lower revs mine had more grunt. about the same when they were both in the high revs though

as tim 010 says when it says oil ok press the instrument panel button once,the level display then comes up.

the official mod is to remove the connectors and solder the wires togethor instead.

Tell your dealers that there is now an actis solution and ti note for this problem so they can look it up. the solution relates to the brake pedal switch.

the n/s is sealed by the driveshaft gaitor (easily replaced and there commen for leaking) the o/s has the changable lip seal if your sat in the drivers seat n/s is left and o/s is right.

ask them is it the n/s or o/s shaft? (n/s closest to the kerb)

edited,thats more like it

the click every so often could be the pedal adjuster going up to the next tooth as it takes the slack out of the cable

youd pick a second hand lump up for cheap.

in general ok,havent changed many

depends if the wiring is there or not

you might need a new sensor. the glass sealant comes on the new sensor.

faz182-what did they say? i didnt personally do the job after the roadtest as i have to much to do on a saturday.

i bet some tw*t has undone the bottem pulley and didnt know the engine has no key ways on the crank pulley etc. pulley stays still,crank moves as you undo the bolt and tighten it back. try to start the engine,oh dear a nice set of bent valves.

that mod was never a recall. dont pay and call customer services if they keep pestering you

you can get some rattles payed for after the first year as well if you find an actual manufacturing defect with a part.

should be replaced every 10 years.

an insurance company would i reckon

yes it is. a w reg could have one of two alarms fitted (both cobra). one alarm with a separate untrasonic box on it with a sensitivity adjustment screw on it or a compact where you swap the red and white ultrasonic connectors over to reduce sensitivity. poss if its a import it might have a sigma...

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there isnt a specific 182 cup. you get a 182 with cup pack options.

when it doesnt start will it just keep cranking on the starter but wont fire up or does it try but cut out straight away? is it engine tempurature related? eg-first thing in the morning or doesnt matter,any temp. is it atmospheric temp related? eg-worse on cold or hot days

probably useless. standard one is a philips i think

you need a diag station to read the fault codes. tdc sensor is a commen problem

like your pics on your website sexy rt,very nice. best of both worlds nice looking car with a nice looking lass sat in it. sold quite a few 2l 16v meg coupes in there day and on the whole they seemed fairly reliable.

i find the clutch biting point hard to feel on the cup as well. you get used to it. i still have the odd day though when im tired where ive stalled it a few times. never heard this click on mine or ever had a complaint about it at work. if your worried book it in but i would suggest...