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Are you turning the piston as your pushing it in? You need to push pretty hard if your not using a windback tool, it'll take a while but keep turning whilst putting pressure on it and eventually it'll go in. Beating it with a hammers always the best option, never forget that.

Car £3800 down from £4500 Cambelt kit £51 Fanbelt £6.40 5 Oil filters £5.08 each 2 Diesel filter 17.84 each K&N filter £25 Water pump £58.47 5 Ltr Coolant £0 2 Glow plugs £12 each Dogbone mount twisted type £6.79 Number plates £5 Wiper arm £27 Rear brake shoes £30 - 2 days out of warranty...

Nope, can't be done anymore those days are gone. The new fully electric MOT system has stopped any of this stuff happening, not like the old style certificates scribbling out dates etc, everythings logged. If I where you I'd try and pay for it myself and just count your losses, not go through...

Mikey how olds the car mate? Renault have now got 4 years unlimited mileage on any rear shoe problems on Clios due to the amount of trouble they've had with them, so if its not too old get it sorted for free. As you say though, sounds like your rear shoe has come off its rivets and jammed your...

Check your fuses dude but main beam and full beam have got different fuses. Could just be dodgy connection in the block plugs on the light cluster. If you want swap the bulbs to the other side to eliminate blown bulbs. Which wiring you on about under the steering rack??

Any bubbles in the header tank? Get a compression test done if its making you think headgasket.

Good post

Sadly not mate, the ABS is totally different, even the type of ring.

There isn't any your meant to have to keep clear.

Shh, don't tell everyone they'll all want one haha ;)

The tiny little ones that you twist the centre and lift up? Its got a small indent for a flatblade screwdriver. Take it into Renault say thats what your after can't 'imagine' it being expensive. If the parts department can't work out what your on about offer to show them on a car on the pitch...

Dunno Gaz mate its on BrianR's son's 172 but looks that way from the corrosion. Same with Rover 75/ZTs chaps, right under the scuttle panel, collecting water lol. They've got drain tubes that if you keep clear, the computer doesn't take a bath though.

The Clios seem so varied to be fair, some gain nowt from inlets/remap etc, some gain loads more, its just the monday morning, friday afternoon cars. DCI's get about 30bhp for £345 - just thought I'd add that *flame suit* :boring:

Just get standards for the rear - anything mores overkill in most cases. Theres a few companies on here that'll sell you a better pad than those Ktec ones, for a good price aswell.

You'd have to get some ABS rings made up for the discs sadly, that goes for the DCI100 and 1.6 16v ones aswell.

What makes you think its the resistor pack, whats actually up with the air con, ie can you hear the compressor kicking in or is it just not cold enough? Take the drivers side scuttle panel off, one screw clip and one holding it on the wing, pull it out. Then you'll see it and the fan etc...

As Jon said Foxy check your dogbone mount, either the bushes will be gubbed (lets the engine move loads giving you the knock when you pull off etc) or the nut/bolt can work loose, giving you a load click or even knock when you do the same. Use a screwdriver if you like and work it see how much...

Yeah its common practice to put a new set of pads on new discs, no point not doing so really. Keep the pads for spares if they're not that badly worn.

Does it happen when you rev it up stationary?? When you let off after a burst off acceleration does the noise go? Could be a number of things, could be something simple like like an exhaust heatshield out of shape, could be something totally different like clutch release bearing on the way out.

I remember it the other year so many people getting stuck in the mud trying to get out of the field. Funny as fcuk.

Yeah looks like its just the old school leads Mike so no auto VIN as you say. Updating its not a problem though ;) Me and a lad at work might be going halves on it depending on how high it goes. No Renault net so no getting codes etc so that throws a fair amount of stuff you can do on it out...

Click Click Doubt it'll stay that cheap anyway.

See this thread Post 10. You can get them from Renault. The day before you want to take your rear wiper arm off, coat the nut in WD40.

The little T bar tool for getting the alloy covers off.

Take it your on axle stands already? If not get the front jacked up and on stands. They're a bit of a bugger without a ramp but nothing major. Get the drivers side front wheel off and the arch liner, and tackle it from in the wheel arch and underneath.

When you replace the disc, more than likely it'll come with a new bearing pressed in ready to go so in effect your killing 2 birds with one stone. Should cure it. If the pads are badly metal to metal, they'd cause noise and all sorts of problems.

DCI Oil on the right?

Mk1 you should be looking at - willy, valver or even 1.7 volvo turbo engine.

Any decent 10w40 is fine. Speak to opieoils/oilman on here if your after better stuff he sells it all.

Creme egg its virtually the same engine, just uses a different airbox etc - big big you can see (updated slightly aswell)