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I also questioned this, considered the possibility of extending the internal scavenge point. I am due to speak with him tomorrow ref this and a couple of other details.

I suspect your only have about a maximum of 3 degrees camber - have you measured it? I have spoken with Paul @ titan at some length and determined that the sump pan design will be 100% fine in the hatch layout. The windage tray is just that, so as a result there are no real engine layout...

Managed to fit it to the engine today. Ive got all the info from Paul so will stick it up asap. What sort of front geometry have you dialed in?

I'll be there x

The fitment of the bell mouths in the base plate only needs to be secure, it does not need to seal. The seal needed is between the base plate (which the bell mouths are friction fitted into) and the throttles.

It doesn't need to seal it, the base plate to throttle mate is what needs to be sealed.

Lovely project.

Oft! Reshelling is a bit extreme; although you do have the advantage of there being quite a lot less to move across. We could also work on the manifold as we do it..

Matt - can you confirm the toothed wheel on the crank/associated mounting point on the adapter plate - is that being used as a TDC / speed pick up?

Hence your search for an LSD....

Yes to car type, yes to PM.

PM your address then.. Yes and yes.

Re: Iceberg 172 Cup Project Very honest advice.

Thanks for your input matt, appreciate it. Right information as follows, I'll share all of it, including the obvious stuff. Firstly the unit fits on in the following manner: F4R from a Clio, converted for single seater use (virtually the same as the FR2.0) You can clearly see the...

I've spoken with Paul at quite some length last week. I'll share my findings shortly.

I've spent the afternoon exploring this / learning more: I'll stick up some more info later.

I'll be there in a min!

It is indeed. I want to see if it has any worth, ..... but so far I've only managed to open the box and oggle at it.

After months of little activity apart from buying bits and pieces this evening I finally pulled the finger out and got on with the build. Main aim was to get the engine out, loom binned, and all of the doors off. Scrap engine & passenger compartment loom. Picked up some tasty bits and...

As above. I'm not getting into all that :boring:

Thanks! There is of course the real risk that it won't work, but if not at least it makes an interesting read for the forum etc.

The general dephaser issue is getting worse and worse, it's nearly at the point where I would consider it being part of a cambelt service every time.

Yes, but there will be a reason for that. + 99% of the Clios I have come across on standalone don't work either. .. If you want I can do a silvervision fitting project thread? That might be more up your street ;)

That's not the point of the project. I'm not considering this for production etc, it's simply an exercise. I'm aware of Russ' car having driveability issues, but I've looked at the format of his layout and have some ideas as to why that is.

The following image gives a good insight into the space I have to work with. (Ignore the pink bit - it is a support lifting the tank to about the right height so I can have a general look at fitment etc.)

I was going to keep this as nothing more than an quiet experiment etc but I thought instead I thought I would throw it up as a little project as it may make interesting reading for some; usual mix of prototyping, design few cad drawings etc. If you don't find this sort of stuff interesting...

Rust bugs have colonised your system!

Yes you can repair it, or alternatively if you have some sort of non OEM system you could sleeve it like this:

Nice little site you've built boys! lol!

Also require internals IIRC