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Look, if your altering settings on the amp, ( ie; the gain/sensitivity control), & there is no difference in sub output, then you should be looking at the amplifiers input signal.... As stated previously a number of times; 1, Check your using the correct Pre-Outs on the Head Unit.... 2, Check...

Already posted a response to one of your threads, how can anyone offer any definite advice or make any informed diagnosis without the relevant information.....To my knowledge no one on here is psychic..... The fact your female has no bearing on your ability to convey information, although from...

A few relevant points that need clarification.... Make, Model & Year of car..... If its an older model then; 1, Is it the original stereo ?? If so, have you removed it from the dash for any reason ?? 2, Is it a replacement head unit you've just fitted ?? If so, did you switch the yellow & red...

Maybe 'Broker' is a slightly exagerated term, they are an insurance company within their own right, that is owned by the Admiral Group I believe, I would assume they are underwritten from some other branch.... EDIT; I STAND CORRECTED, ELEPHANT ARE AN INSURANCE COMPANY..... Going to get a quote...

If its front & rear on the same side it sounds like your ISO speaker block is not fully home behind the head unit, (assuming speakers are head unit driven).....

In laymans terms... You wish to go by public transport from say London to Glasgow.... The ticket supplier, (or broker), offers the two best deals By Virgin Train its £100 By National Bus its £70 You decide to go by bus saving £30....You decide during your journey to switch to the train, but...

Elephant are a broker.... Your current ins could be with company A, your new quote with company B, why would company A & B amalgamate to save you money ???? If your current policy is with company A, and you wish to swap vehicle, then its only company A that will be asked how much its going to...

Depends how much you wish to spend.... I personally would opt for a single din Becker unit, but fantastic quality comes at a price lol.... Then its whether you appreciate the retro look, or the fact your mates will accuse you of buying your head unit from local breakers, (my unit is often...

Are you basing your assumption on a 5 month old quote??? Were both quotes supplied from the same COMPANY ??? If not then your current ins company may have wanted far more than you think to insure your new vehicle..... Brokers deal with many companies, if all companies supplied the same quotes...

Read through this thread & TBH I'm a tad confused.... Just to clarify for me please; 1, Sub emitting low level noise ALL the time.... 2, Sub is playing fine on music....Or isn't it ???? 3, All wiring has been double checked.... 4, System is all good bar background noise when amp is idling....

Using the Headphone jack on the I-Poo you could quite easily connect it to drive external speakers, (volume would depend on speaker sensitivity & impedance).... Done correctly I can see few issues, done incorrectly I can see a toasted I-Poo, (not entirely a bad thing)..... You could fit a...

With regards power supply cable; If your running the amp into a 4ohm load & only playing music then 4awg should just about be OK....If your going to be running 0dB tones then 2awg would be better.... If your running this amp into a 2ohm load then 4awg isn't going to cut it I'm afraid....I...

Having two different size/type of speakers producing similar frequencies can produce cancellation issues, if sound waves are cancelled out or join together to make one larger wave, sound quality will suffer.... A steeper roll off slope where two crossover points meet can lessen this effect...

You state the sub is 4ohm, but is that dual 4ohm, or dual 2ohm wired from factory as a nominal 4ohm....Could do with a link to the actual sub to clarify.... The JBL GTO14001e will handle a 2ohm load no bother, the question is, will your current power supply & charge circuit ??? From your pic...

If your not willing to add an external amplifier to drive your front end then I would suggest the Renault specific Pioneer components coupled with whichever set you currently have which isn't damaged for the rear....

The CROSSOVER module has a 24dB slope The PFM module has an 18dB slope

Simply contact your Audio Control supplier & order suitable replacement modules then.... Or, contact a good I.C.E. dealer near you & ask them to make you some.... Or, (best Option), make your own.... Courtesy of fellow TA user..... How to build Audio Control Modules Like I stated...

Changing what???? The resistors???? With regards setup, have fun.....I can't really convey how to achieve the 'best' results without actually getting 'hands on'.....If I were using one in my car then the factory settings would be totally unsuitable, a cut off at 33hz is simply not...

Its not the 'sound' of panels flexing or rattling that you should be considering as much of, its lost performance & quality within the car.... As has been proven many times, incorrectly installed quality items will be trounced every time by correctly installed cheaper items....

Hmmmmm!!!!! Suppose that would depend on the distance between point A & point B....Or even the route taken..... Tell you what, get a piece of string & follow the rough route your RCA leads will follow, allow a little extra to accomodate any changes in position of amps....Now measure how long...

With regards wiring; The split-charge wiring is extremely simple to do, on most Alternators there are two wires, the larger diameter cable is the charge lead, the smaller diameter is the Batt warning light sense lead, simply remove the connector off this lead & replace with a piggy back...

The cable connections are the weak spots, along with the 'primary' fuse, if using an 'AGU' type fuse you should replace it just to make sure, (as stated earlier they are susceptible to failure with no obvious signs).... That shouldn't happen, the amp should remain switched OFF until a 12v...

Are you using any form of Audio loom aftermarket interface kit??? When you say, "all connections seem to be correct", are you actually saying you've cut & joined wires, or simply connected 'ISO' plugs correctly??? If your using an 'interface' or 'patch' lead you may have the wrong one.... If...

So he's fully trained and should be able to diagnose & rectify your fault....;) Joking aside it all points to a poor connection, (Alpine amps don't usually fail unless pushed by inexperience coupled with ignorance), so I would suggest you start at the front & work back toward the boot...

With regards secondary battery wiring; You have two options; Connected directly to each other in 'Parallel', which would require batteries of similar type & age, using 0awg cable fused at 200amps.... Use this method if you plan on only using your stereo with the engine running...

With regards^^; I would be looking for a second battery also mate.... With regards^^; I actually put that together in an afternoon of madness, it has undergone many upgrades over the last few years in respect of kit used but has kept the basic layout.... I don't personally know Johnny from...

With regards; The single most important aspect of how any speaker works is its enclosure & mounting.... With regards the 'effect' you desire I would opt for a small 'sealed' enclosure with the sub aimed either directly rearwards or upwards with a rearward deflection.... Like so; With...

I think I get you now, your not after the standard 'boom boom', you want musical bass which hits hard rather than rumbles away shaking the car to pieces.... I'd go with a smallish 'sealed' wedge shaped enclosure loosely filled with fibre glass loft insulation to improve low end extension &...

With regards Sony; Depends what your talking about, their subs actually sound OK when installed & powered correctly....But will fail quite quickly if ran anywhere near rated input power for extended periods.... Head Units are another matter though, if you compare a later Sony unit with one...

If it were my car with a budget of £150 for amp & sub I would opt for; JBL GT5 'Ported Enclosure' at £79.99 exclusive to 'Motorworld'... Coupled with JBL GTO4000 amp driving fronts & rear ch's bridged for sub.... OR; Coupled with JBL GTO300.1