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Mine used to work but hasn't of late bar the on the odd ocassion intermittently, it must be a poor connection somewhere

Ah don't say that, I bought mikalor clamps because the look neat and yes I've clamped on the very end over the cut ends. I'll pull the joints back and try HT silicone and leave over night see if that's any better

My newly fitted recessed ktec exhaust keeps on rotating on the sleeved joints even after tightly clamping with Mikalor clamps, what can I used to put in the joint to holt it right? I was going to use high temp silicone if that'll work.

Not yet, I've given up for now but will come back to it when I've had the belts done this week

Problem gone away for now. I disconnected neg lead overnight, removed and reconnected the big white connector in the fuse box which showed a small amount of corrosion and it runs with no problems. I think a tightening of the pins may be in order.

So after the fun of fitting my recessed ktec I've now got an engine management light on and reading the following codes, P0120 and P0136. P0136 - I've recently replaced the front lambda but did have a bad plug connection so will check that P0120 - throttle pedal? Not looked into this yet...

Rob your flamer project is much like mine even down to the black gold cup spoiler. I need to see to behind my fuel cap as well then onto the bent jacking points - all four? Is that built hamber you've used to neutralise the remaining rust?

I've noticed today that with the boot open the 'door open' light comes up on the dash so at least I know the dash light works. Both door switches work so it must be wiring from there on...

Realise I've got two threads going on this so I will abandon this one. See above thread

Do you mean the door switches?

Tried unplugging them, does nothing as the alarm still goes off. Doesn't matter what door I open

Cant see how a bent rear beam could cause a bearing to go before you noticed odd handling or uneven tyre wear. Get it 4 wheel tracked before you go about replacing the beam

Yeah recessed

Anyone?

I've been trying to solve this problem but havent got anywhere. Basically when I unlock my 172 the courtesy light comes on as normal but within 10 seconds it auto locks even after opening a door and with it open. If I put the key in the ignition it wont auto lock, whether connected or not the...

I've bought a ktec recessed exhaust but it's missing the short flanged part that joins cat to centre section, is this part available separately or would getting a sleeve welded onto my cat be a better solution?

I've just bought a ktec recessed secondhand, not looking forward to doing the cutout

One other thing, can you buy the short cat back flange section or would I be better off getting my cat sleeved to slip on the ktec mid section?

I'm looking at buying an secondhand ktec recessed exhaust for my 172, were there different tip styles as the one im looking at looks sharply slash cut in the photos where as I've seen some that are almost the same angle as the bumper.

My list is begining to look rather similar to yours but I enjoy doing it, if I wanted zero maintenance I'd buy a brand new car on finance and be eternally bored at its reliability

I'm sure it would be a good investment if kept to a low mileage and stored in a temperature controlled garage but then that's criminal in my eyes, the whole appeal of 1*2s is the drive

I don't get the argument that you've over paid, it's a LY for starters and it's not like we don't all waste money on cars. Near enough every time you change cars you lose money on repairs and maintenance that's been done but had little use out of if you get what I mean.

I've always wondered how you go about cutting the recess in the correct place and if that recess only fits that particular recess exhaust

Any videos or sound clips? If I got a secondhand one I suppose I could get a recessed tip welded on as I'd rather see it

Hijack Alert! What about for a 172, or best bang for buck?

Washed and clay barred the whole thing, comes up pretty good really. Also the dodgy interior light has decided to start working when the doors open, I love French electrics they might fail for no reason but just sometimes they start working out of the blue.

It was rather dirty with a colony of spiders though, would it be advisable to flash it out with soapy water and rinse before a dry out and relax?

My 2002 172 had wax oil or similar all around the sill area, considering the rest of the car it was in better condition than I'd imagined

Still not worked out what's going on with this, I do now know that the driver side door switch registers on a parasitic drain test where as the passenger side doesn't. Any ideas?

Pretty sure he's been doing it for years but not sure he's been caught before