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defo have a look at the scrapping noise because it will get pricey if anything breaks. maybe the water pump,belt tensioner(cambelt or aux)or alternator has partially seized.

check it on your hand first though to make sure its not to hot for the little tiger,safety first!

what if you bash the cat with your hand(when its cold of course) do you hear a rattle from inside it?(poss cat breaking up). is the front pipe clear of the rear engine mount?

would req a complete new engine etc (as there completly different) of a doner car. id save your money and just save for something a bit quicker in a few years time.

yes sounds like tappets. the oil drains out of them when stood and then they rattle for a while when first started. the tappets should hold there oil for a while when stood but if there worn or full of dirt it can cause the oil to escape when the engine is stood. you could try an oil flush and...

as above.

you know on your instrument panel display it says oil ok when you first put the ing on well if you press the trip reset button it will show you the actual level using 5 zeros. 5 zeros means full, 0 zeros means empty top up asap(the zeros will be replaced by 5 flashing lines)

as above the engine only holds about 5 litres anyway so id say youve overfilled it!. the 5 zeros on your display indicate between min and max on the manual dipstick. its takes about 1 1/2 litres to top up from min to max. if there was just one zero missing then it only wanted about 1/4 litre of...

the pedal will feel to drop up and down due to the fluid pressure being released and then the pump refilling the system. 1,brakes pressed,wheels skid 2,inlet valve on the braking circuit with the skidding wheel closes,computer rechecks if the wheel is still skidding-if yes then... 3,outlet...

thought the intake pipe was £45.

have fun!

depends how old it is. what do they want for it?

get the trusty haynes out. dead easy mate 15min job to swap the rears only.

my confusing punctuation eh:oops:

yes dont break it as it will cause an air leak on the inlet manifold.

bargain price for the engine but it wont fit in your valver with the original inlet manifold on it(makes it to tall)

about 1 1/2hrs to fit all 4 springs. you dont need a spring compressor for the rear you just unbolt the lower shocker bolt and lower the rear arm. the spring then pulls out.

once upon a time..........

to actually lower it you just need new front springs and the rear torsion bar resetting. check all balljoints and suspension bushes etc and replace what appears worn.

depends on dealer how they are held on. if its a rivet you will have to drill the rivet head off.

fingers crossed it stays that way eh.

as black fox says it sounds like the regulator cable has snapped. comes as a complete unit and costs about £150

fitted some to my mates 172 the other week and the ride wasnt that bad. they are a bit harder but not to the extent that you bounce around like a pea in a pod.

ive got one and i agree with the above.

maybe it has a slight misfire. commen problems are coil packs or sparkplugs.

possibly two types of adjustment if its a clio 2 phase 1 1,unclip the handbrake lever trim at the front and you will see a threaded rod with a 10m nut on it on the passenger side of the handle. tighten up this nut. or 2,remove the exhaust heatsheild above the rear of the centre section...

get a nice local garage to just crack them off with a air gun.

i thought the drums were all the same but the shoes can be different makes. anyway its completly random and you would have to remove the drum and look for a make on the shoes.

thats a radio connector most likely for the sattelite. have you got the original stereo fitted? does the sattelite work?

id say you need then- 1,standard rt non pas steering rack 2,dummy pas pump/pulley of a new shape clio( the latest 1.4 and 1.6 models with electric pas have them) 3,tracking check done afterwards you would also need to remove the pas pipes and reservoir