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Never mind. Thought I might see it when I pop to get mine. Wanted to see the cage. Oh well. Next track day maybe.
Damn right it is :) well looking forward to it now so long as red bull start to lose advantage!
why would he down grade ;)
D7000 is only a few hundred more than the 5100 mate. If you're looking to upgrade lenses i'm sure you'll save that by not having to buy a motor lens. Photography is far too easy to spend dolla :(
Depending how serious you want to get with photography, would it not be better getting a body that has a build in motor? Only really for the fact that most of the lenses are cheaper by comparison.
he splices into the current loom mate. although if you can find a replacement 182 engine loom, it would only be a couple of hours labour to swap them over. if you wanted to go for full TDF engine loom it's over £500+VAT iirc. That's just the spark/sensor section too.
Be rude not to mate :) Considering yours is going more and more track focused now, it would make sense to remove all wiring etc and start a fresh. Unfortunately that's not the cheapest, but it will be a damn sight better made.
sounds identical to mine. Presumably the pump is priming? It will probably be getting power to the ECU also, but the problem is, even if you take it to renault, on CLIP, due to the immobiliser light being on, it won't read it all the time (if at all). My issue was engine loom related. if you're...
Blame Dave mate for messing with your wiring ;) JK. it won't be your ECU. Can pretty much garantee that. It will be wiring related. what's the immobiliser light doing? will the car lock/unlock ok. what does it do when you put the key in and try to start it? and pump priming noise etc.
It could be the UCH then, which unfortunately isn't a cheap one :( I think they are around £300 and that's before programming. Plus your keys will need resyncing to it. changing all of your ecu/uch/keys/decoder should work straight away if that is the case. If not, then problem is elsewhere...
As Mick says, wiring is most likely. I would be useful to have it plugged into diagnostics to double check though. Also, i'm not sure whether the ECU set you're using may cause issues. The ECU/UCH may be the earlier gens, however the keys should still work.
When you say flickering? Do you mean...
Are you looking at the same graph :S Stock 172's tend to get around 160ish standard. Looking at Nicks graph he was pulling high 160s before inlets, now it's peaking at 195. You need to revisit GCSE maths matey ;)