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personal preference at the end of the day.handle like f**k or sound the dogs,the choice is yours!

basically to the single type bulb you have an earth,dipped beam feed and a full beam feed.on the twin headlights the full beam is the inner bulb/lamp.make the original earth into two wires by soldering another wire on there.put the dipped beam feed and one earth to the outer bulb and the full...

if theres a large visible amount of water in there(not just heavy condensation)then you can claim under warranty.they started being funny about water in lights ever since they had loads of trouble with water ingress into foglights when the clio 2 first came out.

the 182 rear section is just like 2 normal clio back boxes joined together.its a good job they improved the front half because that rear section wont be doing it any favours.looks like they spent 5mins designing the rear part.

i suppose it could be done but some bright leds or stobe type things would be better because im not sure if you could get the normal neon tubes to come on/off fast enough.i might be wrong though as ive never messed around with neon tubes etc.

give the dealer your reg and they have all the details to supply you with the right part.ask for the injection coolant tempurature sensor.you might as well change it yourself as its dead easy.

to remove the cat on yours will take 5 mins at the most,dead easy.does anybody do a decat for the 1.2 16v? maybe a custom jobbie do you think.

looks like you have to have a custom build then.ascar are good if there is a dealer near you.powerflow haved mixed reports so it depends on which dealer you go to by the sounds of it.

that part about the flap is utter b****cks it wont affect diagnostics.have you left the solenoid part connected up or just blocked the pipe up.the only time you might notice any problems related to that flap not working is maybe a slight hesitation when its very cold but only for a few minutes...

seems an ok price.

are you removing the dashboard or the dash top? if its the dash top then it will be stuck on the clip near the airbag.press down on the dash near the windscreen vents at the same time as pulling the dash top towards you.i must admit sometimes there a right c**t.

depends on where its done and what kinda quality job you expect.for a top notch job its going to be over a grand at least.

exhaust.got to have the sound.

the k-tec idea is a lot better.

£700,direct line with 7 years ncd,no points,25

can be done.you would need the switches,door cards and window regulators.you then need to wire them up.

should do.

£200 for a 36000 service is a decent price for a dealer.

had a cup in at work with an ascar custom made twin exhaust system.wasnt as far in as the 182 pipes but that isnt possible with the spare wheel well in place.the 182 gains from the exhaust point of view are due to the manifold/cat design anyway.these gains can be easily matched with the k-tec...

i thought he was referring to the racers removing headlights to fit air ducts as that is illegal.looks like ive got my wires crossed.the hillpower foglight scoops seems to be what he needs.

sounds like it will be ok then just keep an eye on the tyre wear and see how it goes.if you ever start getting uneven wear then get the allignment check done but you will need the camber adjusting bolts from k-tec to be able to adjust the camber.

dont need headlights on a racer though do you.ive seen pics of a clio race car with an air feed instead of the headlight.obviously you cant do that on the road but he was saying what the racers used and i thought thats what they did.

clio 2 peice of piss.you just need some new connectors for the bulbs and a bit of swapping around.

there are plastic wheel arch trims on the inner wings covering up holes to the engine bay.have you looked at them?

get a magnex centre section and a decat from somewhere else.dont janspeed do one.

the right hand side driveshaft is sealed by a replacable seal in the gearbox casing.you need this seal replacing.dont see how a driveshaft is going to fix the problem.

the dogbone mount underneath is the commen one for wearing.

the judder could be caused by the clutch plate being worn and the noise will be the release bearing.sounds like it needs a clutch kit.

sounds like kwik fit dont know what there on about.fitting is easy enough but you need to get them set up properley.

they wont pay for headlights with condensation/mist in them.they will only pay if the headlight has a fair amount of water building up in the bottem.