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new ecu software update should sort it out.

well no but you cant remove them.

the 182s i have seen have got michelins.

dead easy.you need a set of spanners and sockets(13m usually what you use) and a tube of exhaust paste.

stick welder?

a small flat blade screwdriver to prise off/unclip the sorround.

lexus lights are your own personal preference,if you like the look of them then get some its your car at the end of the day.

renault premixed coolant is green. ask fot type d although i think thats all thats avaliable now anyway. A low temp theremostat would probably help to keep the engine cooler for a while but once its up to full temp then the theremostat is open(standard thermostat would be open as well at this...

not sure if the centre lock can be removed. if you have new keys couldnt you have got a lock kit as it includes the filler cap.

the manifold and cat together would fit though but it would be megabucks!

there is a good chance they would rub as the valver has flared arches but your deisal doesnt.

wouldnt be as noticable as the air is cooled as it passes through the intercooler anyway.

if the wheels rub would depend on the offset. doubt youll notice any difference with an exhaust and filter.

cable maybe but they cant check the mechanism inside the drum. drums arent removed on a mot.

everybody has there own method but i undo the track rod end,the brake caliper and the strut nuts/bolts. i then pull the hub forward and pull the driveshaft out of the hub(30m nut already undone whilst vehicle was still on the ground). o/s shaft sits on a splined shaft and has a pin through it...

a bit of trial/error and patiance is the way im afraid. get someone to hold the bonnet whilst you tighten everything up.

an electrical problem wouldnt explain the rattle you heard before it broke down or the rattle from the engine when it starts for a few seconds. sounds a bit more serious than an ecu or something.

easy enough but you might have to lift the engine up slightly to be able to get the sump past the subframe. Have a look at the headgasket area as that is a commen point for oil leaks on the old energy engines.

think the sports lower it around 40mm.

Your revs should go up (@idle) as you operate the steering to compensate for the load of the pas pump. rally joe-a few possibilities, 1,stepper moter fault 2,stepper moter signal amplifier faulty 3,throttle potentiometer 4,map sensor

as rich says it all should fit. if it is worthwhile depends on the price of the cup suspension compared to an after market suspension upgrade.

the aux belt when it snapped must have gone into the cambelt and made it come off/snap.

glue the balls in place.

drive it steady and see if you can put some oil in it before you set off.

by the sound of it either your mechanic friend has left something loose or the engine has suffered a major mechanical failure.

the metal plate is the only identification on the engine. are you trying to identify a valver engine compared to a williams?

can you line the bonnet hinges up using the paint marks. normally @ production the bonnet is sprayed with the hinges on so you can see where they were bolted before as the area isnt painted. there are two 13m nuts on each hinge.undo these,adjust the bonnet and tighten them back up.

the banging noise was probably the nut working loose before the stud sheared.

sounds like that headlight adjuster has popped off the lense like i said previuosly. i dont mean the adjuster has come out of the outer casing i mean the adjuster has come off the lense inside the headlight. you twist the adjuster about a quarter of a turn then pull it out. have a look to see if...

ok.either a snapped/seized cable or the handbrake cable arm on the brake shoe is seized.