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Re: pedal going straight to the floor then returning, no leaks, bled many times. HELP
How has he fully drained it? If there is air in the module then yes, it will need some professional level equipment to run the purge commands. I'd still get them bled properly first by the two man and pumping...
Andy, I promise there is no gasket. That was most likely for the breather plate rather than the actual upper casing. If thats where you're leaking from then its a diy fix but I'd have a proper look first.
Common places are:
Cover to cylinder head mating face
VVC solenoid seal
Most likely yes, its common but there's no gasket to change I'm afraid its a sealant. You will need to remive the timing belt and camshaft pulleys to be able to remove the cover in order to clean and reseal it to.
Not a job for the faint hearted I'm afraid (or the light in wallet dept either)...
Yeah, we talk a good talk but Polish is always "busy" (which when decoded means "I'm trying to fit in childrens clothing cos I look hench"), Kieran is like an international IT consultant now so never has time for us anymore, Simon blatently did an insurance job on his phase 1 so he didn't have...
Very true but for the price of a genuine oil filter there's really no excuse. Air filters and cabin filters I also only fit genuine units but I get them at a really good price.
They're screwed on mate. My last Mk1 toy:
http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p158/MicKPM/?action=view¤t=100_4429.jpg
I bonded my Williams unit on that with SikaFlex and it never moved as drilling the tailgate isn't for the faint hearted.
Mick
Sounds like a signal error making the ABS module think there's a wheel locking which is making it modulate (hence the noise and pedal feel).
Diagnostics to see what each wheel signal looks like should help finger the offending wheel.
Mick
Re: pedal going straight to the floor then returning, no leaks, bled many times. HELP
Tony hits the home run... fill the resevoir, open furthest bleed nipple and pump until you get fluid then close that point and move to the next.
It helps to do this with the aid of a friend so air doesn't...
The seal is a compression fit rubber seal which over time goes flat, brittle and stops sealing. This normally results in a major-ish oil leak over the gearbox and on to the floor but occasionally oil sneaks into the coolant jacket to.
And you're still going to need diagnostics to see what is causing it.
It could be a faulty H02 heater, incorrect coolant sensor value, cylinder no.1 recognition not completed, poor fuel pressure or a plethora of other things that you can neither see or hear without the aid of a computer.
It varies from garage to garage. We charge £45 for an hours fault finding as I hate charging for "diagnostics" which is nothing more than code reading.
The burning smell isn't a good sign I'm afraid. Really, its one of those where you have to see it but I'd guess something has gotten wet.
Does anything electrical in the car still function (central locking, lights, heater blower)?
I wouldn't even do that, I'd just say buy an R27/R26 or other faster car and be done.
We've got a tCe on the drive and everyone looks at me like a rapist when I say tuning it is just a waste of time/money... sure, it'll do 170hp and blah, blah but its her daily and if I wanted to waste £3k...
Phase 1's don't have half the electrical problems of the X65's like the Phase 2's. No UCH, No silly TB and pedal setup... just dodgy IACV's and the odd corroded relay that you can actually change.
All good innit fam
Proper diagnostic session to start with chap, not a code read.
Had one in yesterday that was just using more fuel than it should. After 5mins poking around the ECT parameter was showing 50 degrees C when the engine was actually sub 30 degrees. New ECT and all good again.
Don't always expect...