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i would probably leave it as it is as the viper wont gain you a deal on top of what youve got already.

we always just cut and solder the wires anyway.we take the mirror back off and solder the wires behind there.

youll not ruin anything so get it done when you have some pennies.a dealer will charge you about 4 hours labour.

any movement probably means the bearing and stub axle havent been pressed into each other properley.looks like the scrapyard is the cheapest option.

on the top of the gearbox bell housing held in place by two 10m bolts.the tdc sensor is used so the ecu knows the engine position and can inject etc at the correct time on the correct cylinder.the flywheel has 2 marks on it one of which is engine tdc.the other mark is used so the ecu can advance...

key about £50.about £30 to code it in.

best let your dealer have a look.

probably another renault f**k up as i would have thought yours should beep.mine and our lasses are both 2002 and both beep.

yes im going for the sports cat as its seems the best option all round.

clutch kit probably about £50>£80.labour costs all depend on where you get it done.

willy and 16v hubs are the same. your probably talking about £100 for a stub axle from renault. what do you mean by side to side movement? there shouldnt be play in anything. cant you get the sheared bolt out with an easy out? time for another scrap yard visit maybe.

well ive got the induction kit and an exhaust.getting manifold + ecu from hillpower and k-tec sports cat the next pay day after that.will see how it goes.

like most things if you dont look after it then it will break.

clutch judder is normally a sign of the clutch linings wearing.you will need to fit a clutch kit to cure that problem.

ive heard if you do all the exhaust and inlet mods the ecu works well.going to get the ecu and inlet manifold at the same time from hillpower.

yes.the 270 is the batch number and the 0 is the year.so 270-0 is batch 270 made in the year 2000.they were obviously made before batch 094 in the year 2001.do you see what i mean?

yes the additional injector is for cold starts.you can unplug it without causing problems just to eliminate it.personally i would look at the coolant temp sensor first though as i cant say ive ever come across any problem with the cold start injector before.then again theres always a first time.

a r5 engine will last if its setup properley,looked after and not excessivly abused.the problem with r5s is boyracers get them and just wind up the boost exspecting everything to put up with it.i had to repair my mates because he messed around with the wastegate rod and made it boost that much...

their in the faulty range because there before 094-1.contact your local dealer and see what say.tell them that youve been told the coils are in a faulty range on a renault tech note and see where that gets you.cant remember the note number off the top of my head.

panic over then mate.like the pub but i got fed up of waking up every morning with a banging headache and an empty wallet.once i get in there i never stop at a few.

you still got my crystal ball ben?

whatever it was it was a linked to quite a few things so indicating an earth wire or commen feed.putting feeds down the wrong wires can play havoc with electronics.

the reverse fault may be just your gear linkage is a bit stiff.lubricate the gearstick mechanism and all pivot points on the gear linkage.the noise may be a diff or shaft end bearing getting noisy.does it only do it on overun? does speed change the noise?

sounds like youve tapped into an earth wire.

you can get the number.pull off the plastic engine sheild/cover if it has one(unclip from the front and slides out towards you from the back).between the inlet manifold ports on the top of the cylinder head you will see 4 stumpy things(1 between each port)with some wiring going to each one.these...

the problem with the early plips is they work using infared signals.if anything is between the plip and reciever or you just dont point it in its direction the reciever wont pick up the signal.

mk2 on the instrument panel,mk1 near the radio display on the dash.mk2 also has the warning beep as well.

posting on here keeps me occupied.id only be sat in the pub or lied on the sofa bored.cant be arsed to do a lot of fiddle jobs to keep me busy in the winter cos im a bit nesh!

there is a number on each coil.any coil with a number before 1-094(sometimes written the other way round,094-1)is faulty and could be replaced for free. for example 2-243 is after the range so not applicable but 0-342 is before so would be in the range and may be replaced for free.if your unsure...

just look at the rubber gaitor on the end of your driveshaft.you will know if its gone because grease will have been flung everywhere.