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I have been missing the extra low frequencies my sub used to provide before I sold it. However I cant afford to lose any boot space and I want to keep the spare wheel. I have removed the factory fit cd changer as I have a harddrive with all my music on. I can't help thinking that a Pioneer...

I dicided to refurb my grab handles as they were looking messy. For some reason I had the bright idea of doing them in Iceberg Silver the same as the car!!! They look ace but now make the gearknob and silver insert on the centre console look really untidy. How easy or hard is it to remove...

Didn't think you were taking the piss!!! I was just reluctant to remove the oil as it cost so much even though deep down I knew it ws the right thing to do!!!!

Yeah against my wallets best interests the oil came out. The box is like new now it has the recomended grade in it.

I got it for mine. It made the syncros stick and the gears grind because of this. The box was more clunky than stock and horrible when cold. I would stick to the oil grade recomended by Renault. Gear change is 100 times better since I removed the Royal Purple. Worst £60 ive ever spent...

On the PH1 there are grills under the headlight not sure what the flows like on the PH2 though.

Dont really see the point of a long CAF it only needs to go next to where the battery is like the maxogen does Having a CAF down low worries me a bit also as surely theres a higher risk of water getting in??

Just noticed on the last MOT my car had that they have metioned the rear bushes are worn. I had never really heard of these until the other day. Where are they located and are they easy to change?? I'm quite mechanically minded and have already done the aux belt and tensioners, all 4 disks...

Ive just put the v6 espace airbox in mine induction note is much nicer with an air feed and uprated filter and the box is allot less noisy than the standard PH1 172 box while on the motorway. 1 air feed also makes the engine bay look allot tidier

Mines done the same since a aux belt change. I'm pretty sure its the alternator bearing seems loudest between 1000 and 2000rpm. WD40 makes no difference if anything it'll disolve any grease left in the bearing and make it worse.

I generally use a full tank in a week and cover 360 miles. Its a great commuting tool suprisingly ecconomical on a dual carrigeway or motorway and is a comfortable drive. The only issues I have is the road noise when on a motorway but I think thats down to our shoddy roads!!!

Mine does the same mainly between 1-2k rpm allot of people have similar problems so if you get a good answer and a solution let us know!!!

comes up allot i dont think its possible

There's a guy on ebay selling them at a very reasonable price and they turned up next day when I ordered mine from him

Just had this on mine. If the noise increases on a right hand bend then its one of the bearings on the left side and visa versa. If the noise increases every time you turn in one direction then its probably one of the front bearings if you have to turn in quite hard to get the noise to increase...

I havn't started I was going to do it a few weeks ago but when I changed mine I only took a few pictures so I'm not sure if its going to be helpful or not

I was going to do a guide when do you need it by and ill try get it done

It would be nice to see proof of gains as weel as details of the conversion as I have always been told the TB on the clio is not the main point of restriction and I am interested to see how much of a difference it actually makes.

Can you provide details of this???

No point as the TB is not a restriction on the sport.

No its just a chavette instead

TBH it sounds like a knackered CV joint to me I had exactly the same symtoms on my same car. I had snapped one of the CV balls off!! Did the guy check this?

They look better, wipe better, create less wind noise and dont start to lift when your driving fast.

Great service highly recomended. My order arrived quickly and with free samples!! Thanks again

Tensioner should have been changed at 32k anyway so if it wasn't thats probably why is failed. So far in 4 months of ownership Ive had: 1) Aux belt, pulley and tensioner as the previous owner didnt get the tensioners and pulley changed just the belt. £120 as I changed them all myself. 2)...

IMO clean the oil away and see how long it takes to come back. If its only losing that much over a few weeks or even months its probably not worth getting it sorted.

could be anything really get someone to sit in the back and try to pinpoint the noise while your driving, its much easier and safer than doing it yourself while trying to drive!!!

Cheers for the help. Ive ordered some rear discs etc anyway as they need doing. However Its only been a few months since I changed the rear pads so will I be ok reusing the ones I have or should I get some fresh ones?

Apart from the 1-2k whistle that I have atm I noticed a whine at about 3k which I put down to the bearing causing the whistle. However while going down the motorway at 70 earlier i was listening to the whine and its become more of a drone. To try and determine if it was engine related or not...

I agree with this. Though TBH you will never see mega gains with an induction kit on one of these engines as the stock airbox is pretty good as it is. I dont really think a kit that was on a 1.6 is going to be up to providing enough flow for a 2.0 unless it was over engineered to begin with...