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sounds like a wiring fault.probably the wiring related to the injection locking relay.

check the clearance of the pas rack/pipes heat sheild. had a few gearbox mounts work loose and the centre bolt snap before.

seeing as youve got it stripped then i would change the rear crank seal to eliminate it.the seals are cheap enough.

check the tension/condition of the belt.

your best to adjust it in wet/damp conditions as this is most likely when the wheels would skid.

the siren will have 3 wires:- red-battery positive black-earth the remaining wire is the siren activation wire from the alarm ecu.

sorry the stud should have a 10m nut on it.the stud attaches to a captive nut which the 13m bolt goes through the alternator and its bracket and then screws into it.tighten the 13m bolt and refit a 10m nut.this wouldnt affect starting unless the aux belt has gone slack and stopped the alternator...

on an old valver it will be under the bonnet somewhere probably near the battery.some are in the scuttle panel as well.yours sounds like the alarm works but there is a siren fault,either the siren itself or the wiring to the siren.

there is a proper method with pressure gauges but most people seem to adjust by trial and error.slam on the brakes and see if your rear wheels lock/skid.adjust the compensator rod nut 1 turn and try it again.

that is the aux belt tensioner.had a few at work where the 13m bolt has come loose and the 10m nut is also missing from the stud that points upwards.retighten the 13m bolt before your belt starts going slack.

it all depends on what is up with the heatsheild.there has to be a manufacturing defect with it for any warranty to apply.if the sheild hasnt been damaged by anybody then it may be warranty.i will check with my warranty manager this week to be sure.

you cant adjust the sensor gap it just fits in the hub and thats it.the only way you could have changed the gap is if you bent the hub slightly when you changed the bearing.are the sensor connections ok? is the target ring in good condition? is it the correct abs sensor?

i always give it about 10/15 mins worth of driving before i give it some.most of your engine wear is done when the engine is cold.

the axles are probably the same its just the shockers,springs and the front/rear anti roll bars that will be different.they are all interchangable though.

the excessive heat that the master cylinder etc is subjected too could cause some damage so i would change the heatsheild.dont think the sheild itself would cost much.

maybe the cat>manifold joint is loose and blowing.

hit the bracket that it sits in on the inner wing not the pipe itself.

the washer bottle splits near the hole for the pump.quite commen and defo warranty.

if anybodys close to chesterfield ill fit all 4 springs for £40

this thing weve got is on a trolley and you charge it up with a tyre pressure gauge/pump.as well as putting pressure down the system it refills the reservoir at the same time.

probably a bit of both.

cleaning out the throttle body sometimes helps.

i thought the key on the siren disabled the complete alarm not just the siren.

whereabouts you from seymour?

there has been a few reprogramming notes released to dealers about 1.2 running problems but a slightly lumpy idle would seem to be normal.

on a early mk1 yes because the fuel rail has a return and a feed so the valve can be fitted.but most 172s and all later 16v engines only have a feed to the rail and the regulator is in the sender unit/fuel pump so its not possible to fit the valve.

i think any aftermarket mudflap would fit in the same way apart from the tailored flaps which fit exactly to the shape of the car,eg-they follow the shape of the sill etc so they wouldnt fit with your skirts.

they come with a renault badge on the rears but you put it on so you dont have to fit it.about £30 a set but i would check with your local dealer mate.

some of the last of the line valvers had darker centres as well.