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they probably just need stripping and cleaning out.brake shoes can last up to 100,000 miles depending on how you drive.

remove the rear seat base.tilt it up from the back and unhook it from the front. remove the seat belt bolt at the bottem of the b pillar.unhook and remove the metal bar. remove the door seal. carefully unclip the trim from underneath the upper b pillar trim. pull the trim out to release...

ill clear them now.

if the aftermarket wheels are the correct offset there is no real affect on the handling.

you can use the sill if you put something between the jack and the sill(like a peice of wood).you could also use the chassis section just in from the sill and the chassis member just back from the front wheel arches which goes from the sill to the inner chassis section.the subframe is also ok if...

sounds like the valver because the electric pas in the clio 2 dci is virtually silent in operation.

a 1.4rt is a 2 bar axle and a valver is a 4 bar axle(the 2 additional bars on a valver are used as anti roll bars)

easy to change but you need a press to remove/refit the bearing.if you try and hammer the bearing in you will damage it.

yes exactly the same method.

headgaskets are easy enough to change and you can change the rocker cover gasket while your there.

pull of door mirror interior trim unclip inner upper door frame trim unclip speaker grill using a screwdriver and remove the speaker by unscrewing 4 twenty torx screws. remove the torx screws from behind the speaker. undo the 30 torx screw in the centre of the interior door handle.pull...

most oil leaks on 1.4 energy engines are from the headgasket.

i will check for sure.brakes are definatly not covered but wheel bearings maybe.

i havent forgot about it but all the info we have now is on disc and its a right pain to find.got a fair bit to keep you busy,will send it soon.

had it on the rollers yet andy?

remove heatsheilds,unbolt linkage,remove circlip from underneath and remove gearstick from underneath.

most sensor outputs can be checked with just a multimeter when you have the info.some of the more exspensive code readers do have the option of accessing sensor outputs.

standard ecu can cope with just exhaust and induction kit.

and ouch! ooh the smell of burning flesh is not nice im sure.

have you tried a set of locking wheel nut removing sockets.quite cheap but youll have to buy some new locking wheel nuts after.

doesnt look like a gen renault key and if it is its very old so you cant order replacements.

approx 20,000 volts to intially start the bulb depending on model and a constant 85v to keep it going once its lit.

im same,stripped one of these down the other month and i still cant fully remember,god someone put me in a bowl.

dont test the starter pack with a multimeter because youll fry the multimeter and probably give yourself a shock as well.

1.4 clio clutch,nice and easy.

he said you can get 2 types of cam kits from renault.group n where only the exhaust cam is different and another cam kit(used for something else)where both cams are different but they do gain you a lot of top end power.contact hillpower for full info.

maybe the piston rings are going dry when you leave it stood for long periods so you intially lose some compression.have you tried changing the oil and putting some quality stuff back in.

if you live anywhere near chesterfield ill fit the clutch for £50+the price of the clutch kit.

major service approx 2.3hrs labour.the labour rate at my dealer is about £65 per hour so that about £150 labour before youve started on parts/oil.

i think hillpower said that the renault group n use the same inlet cam its just the exhaust cam thats different.