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check the starter moter connections espicially the solenoid wire.check for battery voltage at the large red wire/terminal and 12volts at the other thin wire when the key is in the crank position.check the battery is fully charged up(above 12volts).if all ok and the engine still doesnt turn over...

putting the 1.2 16v in an old clio would involve a lot of parts and wiring to get it to work using the original injection system etc.

have you had a look on the hillpower website?

what is the r-sport one then?

thats because your mate will have the 1.2diet engine.earlier clios had a 1.2 version of the energy engine which from the outside is identical to the 1.4energy engine.

from what ive heard the r-sport computer and the hill power computer are both group n units.

arent they in the boot lid but there is a cut out for them in the spoiler.i can remeber customers moaning about them dribbling water down the rear window all the time.

werent they in the spoiler already on later versions.

sometimes

get a complete 1.4 engine with its ecu and wiring loom and everything will fit in.you could use the 1.2 gearbox if you want.

no sorry phrased that wrong.like my magnex mate so thats staying.

wrong.the reciever isnt coded.the reciever sends the recieved plip code to the decoder unit and if the code is correct then the decoder will unlock the doors.the plip key and the decoder are coded togethor the reciever is not this just picks up the plip signal/code and sends it to the decoder it...

the key plip has a small watch battery in it.undo the small philips screw and have a look.

magnex cat back at the moment.

drive it steady and dont rev the nuts off it for about 800 miles.there is a section about it in your handbook.

probably more hassle than its worth seeing as youve got no replys.

the ecu recives the average speed of all 4 wheel sensors calculated by the abs ecu on the abs system apart from on the cup that has a speed sensor in the gearbox.there is every chance it may overead very slightly.

i know.i always just give them some dog with the trusty airgun.i dowt they overtightened it.they must have damaged it when they took the drum off.

probably still has got a fan belt as bmw still use the viscous fan on some of their engines.check the belt tension and condition.

have they got frozen up and caused the fuse to blow.have you checked your fuses?

most likely a fault with the switch on the drivers side.

as far as i know you can only get the exterior seal/slide set for calipers now.

what size socket are you using?should be a 16m.if you cant remove it then you may need to remove the head,have it drilled out and a helicoil repair done.

it on the rear off the engine block.you can see it from underneath its just above the subframe.it will either be the normal metal filter or will be a plastic housing(unscrews the same)with a replacable yellow carboard cartridge inside(obviously not cardoard but thats what it looks like)

have you gave it a good road test to make sure their bedded in fully?

leave the resorvoir cap off whilst you do it and press the pistons back in slowly.make sure that when your done the levels not above max as this could cause your brakes to bind.

i would have thought they would make it marginally slower but you might not even notice it.defo get it lowered because 17s dont half jack up the back end on them.get a few in at work and they look like monster trucks on the back.

what about the sheilds at the bottem? do any of the sheilds appear loose or damaged?

my mates 1.2 was decatted and had a green induction filter on it and the combination of the two made it feel nippier.

maybe the valve had got jammed somehow then.