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yes you need a switch that can switch the positive and the negative around otherwise the solenoid will only work one way.you only need to supply the solenoid for a breif second as well.

depending on where you get it prices range from £200 up to £350

play is normally caused by the steering column(uj) or track control arms on the rack that can be separatly changed.

to work the solenoid you need to give it a feed(positive) and an earth(negative) for a breif second.you switch over the positive and negative(earth)to get the solenoid to lock and unlock.

got a 3 tonne jack and two 3 tonne axle stands for £100.maybe a bit of money but quality costs im afraid.had the cheap jacks before and their reach isnt very high and they soon wear out.having said that though ive still got a cheapo 2 tonne halfords jack thats still going strong.

starter moters on valver arent to bad.the exhaust front pipe will probably be the most awkward part of the job.

abs has been proven to work.as from the middle of this year every new car sold has to have abs as standard hence the discontinuation of the 172 cup.

normally the ecu faults due to water ingress and corrosion on old clios.you can visually see this if you remove and inspect the computer.

you need to check the alternator charging rate at the battery.it should be between 13volts to 14.7volts with or without electrical consumers(lights,hrw etc).if its charging ok then maybe the warning light wire is making a poor connection on the alternator.

a few possibilities:- 1,map sensor fault(also check the condition of the rubber pipe to the map sensor) 2,coolant temp sensor fault 3,tdc sensor fault

have they knocked the switch or connector when they changed the mounts.have a look.

you only need to lift up the back seats to get to the tank level sender unit.the fuel filter is underneath the car.

im pretty sure youll be ok.most dealers wouldnt really make a thing of the vehicle being lowered but i suppose it all depends on your dealer.

bloody stings! lol

you open all bleed screws and fill the expansion bottle up with coolant.close the bleed screws when coolant flows out of them.run the engine for a few minutes(until its getting warm) with the expansion bottle cap off then refit the cap and run it up to fan temp to ensure the cooling fan cuts in.

its on the o/s in front of the fuel tank.easy to change.fuel will only come out of the pipes for a couple of seconds so you dont need to clamp them off.watch your eyes when you first remove the pipes as there may be pressure still in there.

just replace the ones with play in.if the mileage and age is low there may be a renault contribution.they would probably be completly covered if its still in its first years warranty.

drop a lot or virtually cut out.when you watch inside the idle valve as you switch on the ing and start the engine you should be able to see the internal shaft move as it will close to bring down engine rpm(if you can see down the holes and see it that is).if you can see the shaft and it doesnt...

once the system has been filled and bled you dont need to keep opening the bleed screw to release air as there wont be any in there.the bleed screw should unscrew a couple of turns then pull it out(it doesnt fully pull out on some radiators just enough to allow air out)

about 35mins(this would include jacking up the car etc)to do both sides.

clio balljoints are bolted on.its other models like laguna etc where the balljoint is a press fit into the wishbone.balljoints are about £35 each.

i realised you undid the track rod end nut i just meant the large nut on the track arm. slanting that why eh,did you tighten up the 30m driveshaft nut? is there any play in the hub/wheel bearing? is the shocker top ok and secure? if there ok either the hub is slightly different or it is bent.

if its a clio then no.the balljoint is held onto the wishbone by two 16m nuts and bolts.there is a 16m bolt and nut that tightens up a pinch bolt to fix it to the hub.once the pinch bolt 16m nut and bolt is removed you may need to open the pinch joint up slightly with a chisel to release the...

all the later petrols use a constant 3 1/2 to 4 bar at all throttle positions.i realise a valver with the fuel pressure valve working on manifold pressure would make the fuel pressure lower at idle etc but i would have thought it would be around 3 1/2 to 4 bar at full throttle(using the standard...

a really worn balljoint can cause excessive tyre wear on the edges.it will also affect the handling and make a knocking when they get really worn.if there worn/play in them i would change them asap.

probably wrong but i thought standard fuel pressure @ full throttle would be around 3 1/2 to 4 bars max.

take the reading @ full throttle forgot to say that. plumb in the gauge and then roadtest it to get an accurate reading.

phase 1 19 16v wheels are different to the clio phase 1 ones and pretty horrible to.stick with your phase 2 clio wheels if i was you.

yes as far as i know.funny angle as in which way.have you retightened all the nuts and bolts you took off? did you touch/undo the track arm?

40 because thats how many tins you need on one jet engine before you decide its crap and give up.