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the battery 12v can be got straight from the battery.connect the earth to the sidelight/headlight bulbs earth wire.pick up an ing feed from the ing relay in the engine fuse box.i would personally put them on a separate swithchable circuit as the fuzz dont like these lights and they are illegal.

the belt on a 172 is spring tensioned so if its squeaks you probably need a new belt.also check thats its not the tensioner or idler wheel that is noisy.

check the pads are free in the pad carrier and the caliper slides are free etc.

i got a custom exhaust from ascar in sheffield.came with a long garantee,was well built and sounded good as well.

make sure its not off a late phase 2 valver as the ecu will be part of the immobiliser and it wouldnt work on your car.

i would have a look at the inj coolant temp sensor.

yep you need an rsi axle as its the same width as yours but has the same brakes as the valver.

good point.if the reel is not bolted in the correct posotion the mechanism wont release out the belt but it does retract it in.

on all the ones ive done the subframe gearbox mount thankfully prevented any damage occuring.

them nuts have to be ft! he must have been a real man to over tighten that.

had that on a few 172s.the centre mount stud nut comes loose and the stud shears off.the only reason that it doesnt do a lot of damage is that the other mount on the subframe keeps the engine from moving around to much.

the belts probably jammed internally and so would need changing.

if its just the top end of the engine you plan to rebuild then you can do it with the engine in.if you were going to rebuild the bottem end as well then i would take the engine out to make it easier.

i thought the sports cat gives you 7 bhp and there exhausts give about 3 bhp.thats what david said in an e-mail he sent me a while ago.

grind them off and get new nuts and bolts.

the 1.2 and 1.4 are virtually the same.the brakes are most likely the same as well.just fit the 1.4 and you can use the original gearbox,exhaust etc.

as i said.if it virtually cuts out then thats the problem but if it still idles pretty high with the idle valve blocked off then there must be an air leak somewhere else.

colour code it to your cars colour.that what im going to do when i finally skank one from work.

to much coolant will pop the relief valve in the expansion bottle cap.level on max when engine is cold is ok.

the bushes that are on the end of the anti rollbar where they bolt to the front wishbones.they are held in place by a clamp and a 13m nut/bolt.

god i hate that black stuff,makes removing panels a right tw*t sometimes.you can buy the stuff in rolls from renault,its not much.most of the time though your alright to just refit the panel without redoing the black sealer.

column would be the first thing to check i think.

try lubricating the column gromit in the drivers footwell.could also be a noisy rotary switch.

the only thing missing off the above is the rotary valve movement is controlled by a torsion bar rod.this is so you get full pas when turning on the spot but less pas whilst driving because full pas whilst driving would be dangerous.the torsion bar rod flexes more when the wheels are harder to...

track control arms bolt to the rack,the track rod ends screw onto the track arms,the track rod ends bolt to the hub.

idle stepper moter perhaps(on the right hand side of the throttle body)

standard power is 98bhp

have you checked the brake fluid level?

put the roll pins in the correct way round.dont forget to refit all the selector ball,rods and springs that sit in the casing.fit a complete synchro kit.be careful when removing the 5th gear cover as you can snap the 5th gear plastic oil feed.replace all the shaft circlips(although some of the...

it shouldnt work but it does so disconnect the second sensor as dogmaul says.