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Will all the faults clear Luke, but just return? Is the knock sensor causing any problems with then engine? or does the RTE think that's a ghost fault? Connector problem would be my guess. Have a look at the plug under the engine fuse box. White plug, and check for any green gunk in there. Could...
IIRC the hubs are slightly stronger than the nuts threads, so i'd imagine they will be fine. Have you used a breaker bar on it? As said blow torch from behind ;) and try and shock it. Which bit is spinning btw, the surround on the nut?
On a seperate note, it winds me up to fcuk how many people...
Good point, wrapping will substancially lower the risk to the starter. I've been told that it would be fine anyway, but you just need to cool it before starting again.
Why's that Tony? you not running a manual rack?
fare one luke, but didnt the cup racers used to run without them (might just have imagined that though :o)? covers on the cambelt should do the job really, but the aux is pretty exposed I suppose.
like you say it could be cold weather as you've got it Arctic up there I believe. If it's fine when dipped, and the trip is saying ok then it's probably fine. Just keep an eye on it.
Engine loom
Starter Motor
Suspension Knocking/Creaking
Dephaser 10miles after the belts were changed. :mad:
Over a grand spent on it easily. :( It's annoying as up to the point it wasn't moving for a few months it never really put a foot wrong.
the CTR handling is defo not as precise as the 200. Straightline speed I was supprised at how well the colt faired. Poor little fiat struggling at the back, but in fairness, it was underpowered over the others. Good vid, although their accents were confusing me ;)
Is that each? Breakers charge £35 each for them iirc.
True, but if you wash the car regularily you'll be fine. Spray all the arches will a bit of under seal to be cautious
not protecting as such, just to prevent build up of crap on parts. All moving parts round there are pretty well protected as it is. You don't need to worry about driving without them really.
depends what you're doing with the car mate. If it was track orientated then you could to loads to it. Road wise, maybe change all the rubbers on the ARB/wishbones/subframe. Clean up the bay. Wrap the manifold, get the inlets ported, remove the AC. etc. Loads of things, but depends what you're...
Tell me you haven't removed the starter heat shield to lose a bit more weight have you ;)
nice work mate. Thought you were going to be using the old ph1 manual rack? Didn't realise you can just snip the pipes and put it back. makes sense I suppose.
lol i'm amazed the TC was kicking in on straights too. Shouldn't be driving like that if you can't drive. More money than sense obviously. He has no control of that wheel either. :headno: It's annoying the hell out of me how much he is on and off the throttle. :mad:
cup suspension would make a little bit better handling wise. I presume the bolt spacing is the same on the 172 FF and cup? Prolines will make a difference compared to standard springs on the standard FF setup.