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It's 54mm for the standard mk2's and 58mm for the normal sports, 60mm for the cup/trophy.

What a knob, I can't believe he blamed you. Yellow flag ffs!!! I'd have been mad as fcuk. Gutted for you mate

If you look at the alloy guide at the top of this section it says et35-38 for mk2 :S

This game is officially pissing me off. Multiplayer is crap. Connections fail all the time. It won't let me play at the mo either. Trying to do party last night and again it messes up. it's back to mw2 for me :(

Ace pics, but the should be a year late :(

If the light was not flashing it's not a decoder or a key issue. Solid light is immobiliser problem due to something. I tried different UCH/ECU combo on mine and it did nothing. The only thing that worked was rewiring the engine bay, and changing the starter motor. There is a back feed from...

The engines aren't that strong. Friend of mine has 3 lying on his floor :S I used to drive a 100 and mpg was good, nice to drive too.

What seats ?

a good detailer could touch it up, wet sand and polish and it will hide it. Saves you spending 300quid plus

Not bad mate, but looks sweet fa like the frs colour. Might just be pics though.

Interesting kev. Dot4 super castrol works very well, even when not bled prior/after track days. Lol

Think around 1-2k fitted. Ktec charge 1700quid for quaiffe fitted. That's using original crown too. The gripper gb was much cheaper though, but more maintenance required with that setup. There are pro's and cons to both.

;)

That's kind of obvious no? There might be nothing wrong with the bearing, just the heat makes it a little more squeeky against the fingers. Will be interesting to see if this lasts, but if not, it's not exactly a long job to redo every few months.

Oh, and you can put ANY JC5 on the car. You just need to get the UCH reprogrammed to state GB or ABS sensor for the speedo. I know a guy who might give you more nearer the 1500mark for it. With a good GB it would be worth around 2.5K ish, so without I doubt it's 1500quid less tbh.

Very generous of you mate. A few hours work there. Bet that was fun in the snow ;)

There is a few guides, I did one also. You need to be a member though. Dot 4 is fine even on track. You get what you pay foe obviously ;)

fare enough. Might be just the immobiliser/relay system that does this. Strange the UCH relays didn't solve the issue though.

also interested in this. Mine squeeks like a b**ch after a track session. Heat is the enemy :(

You can PC plastic yeah. I presume the heat is lower for longer.

you could tidy them up Dan, or just remove the ones that you don't need i.e pretensioners, speakers, but that won't make much difference.

did you sort this Rob? One of the 6 relays would be the best bet. Have you tried moving them around? You must get official renault ones as the ECU reads the exact load on the wires through the relays as a sort of secondary mechanism, so you can't bipass it IIRC.

There's your answer mate. All 1*2's do it when cold. Usually when first started. I presume once it's warm it is fine?

Nice pics. Who did the bodge job of the engine bay.lol

The clarity on that is pretty good for ISO 1600. That on a D40? I always find the d40 isn't great in dark conditions without flash (which makes pics look crap imo).

Because it's easy....... Man up ;)

I use the 18-200 VR on mine. Nice lense, quite heavy(you can feel the quality).Very versatile too.

Epic! Can't wait to see the moldings done and sprayed :approve:

You want to change final drive really ben. Get a quaiffe in there with modded crown ;) nice and cheap

It should go out when you turn the ignition on. Flash beforehand when the key isn't in