Search results

That would cost as much as the kit ;) If you're reasonably compitant with a spanner, you should be fine. I should just all bolt on. Not sure if there is much wiring to mess with. That and the changing of the throttle pedal/cable.

The silverline is a great bit of kit for the money. It is harder to use though as it has a habbit of running away from you on the panels depending on the curves. DA are much easier, but you'll not get as good results and it takes longer to use it. you'll not burn through the paint that easily...

if it cranks fine, and there is no immobiliser light issues when you're cranking, then i'd say it was the crank sensor. Get it stuck on diagnostics to be sure (you don't have to go to renault though), or get someone to remove it and clean it.

3.1L for the GB oil mate. Just fill it till it starts coming out of the fill hole as said.

If i'm honest i'm not sure if either will suit the Mk3, but I prefer the first ones.

what do you mean by resetting the alarm? does it go off? Alarm hasn't got anything to do with the immobiliser really. When it's cranking, does it seem to get weaker? If so it could be the car battery. I would try changing the keys batteries first though. If it continually cranks, but nothing...

That would be your best bet mate. Fred will put it right

ebay for a spare key, remove the transponder. Then just the cost of the coding. If you still have your actual key bit then it won't cost you that much. Prices you've been quoted are standard tbh.

if that's the full cambelt kit the price for the parts is around that IIRC, so he must be doing it for nothing. Oh and you MUST us the locking tools mate.

lol class. Pussies

is the car handling badly? knocking?

in fareness, i've seen worse v6 reps. stick shocking though c and d are close on the key board, and this guy doesn't look like he pays particular attention to cetail ;)

pics? symptoms?

it might not be the shocks mate. Most hatches will feel like the rear skips while going over a bump/pothole on a bend, albeit only minor skipping. Unless you're switching ends on yourself, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

yeah lights have to be on for them to work as said.

bump stop? :S

They make zorsts for racing series. Only about 17 in circulation, custom built, fit is perfect. awersome systems.

Second hand BTB :) end thread ;)

1m might be ok. What box you running it to?

They not a bit soft Fred? Pro's are good, slightly stiffer than standard, but I don't think handling wise they made that much difference on track IMO

I think Henk does it, or knows someone that does. It would probably cost you more to get it fixed really. I know what you're saying though. Sell the uch and use that money to get the car remapped? Did you use the new uch or could you just return to Renault?

You're not trying the standard springs with the kit are you? Is the kit new or second hand? If so, unless the previous owners used the standard rear setup, the must have had the full rear kit. Bit of a wierd one though

drove the 200 cup at oulton and it was great. Tyres are gash though. Much more stable, for me the tyres let it down a bit on track. Nice car to drive on track

If you're on about the seat which adjusts the height mate, it just sits on it. Or do you mean to the car? Once in position it holds itself in place. Presume you removed the old ones :S

How on earth did you manage to get both wet? Get yourself a spare set mate. Will be easier and cheaper in the long run

^^^ that :)

I thought that mate, but for some reason mine wasn't working, but my others were. Changed the fuse and all good ;) Renault for you.

Nope, shells are the same. Only difference between the 182/172 shells is the wheel well has been covered up (they just used 172 shells for the 182 and welded in a sheet of metal. Cheap frenchys ;)). Hubs are different, but it should all fit on either shell.

Nothing like a bit of positive camber Naith.lol. Glad you're sorting it though. :)

There is on for the rear brake light. Open the passenger door. Inside the hinge area, there s a little panel with a yellow and red sticker on it. Pull panel off, and turn it over. There will be a load of symbols on the back (a key) to show which fuse in what position does what. Have a look and...