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I've not tried CP on specific tar spots yet, just as a general pre wash but will give it a go, thanks. I believe AutoFinesse will be releasing their own version of a tar and glue remover later this year this year. Russ I think has had a sample to try out

if it's properly sealed and the wax / sealant is still there and working ie not left for months and worn out, it should wash off quite easily. all dependant on what wax or sealant you are using really? When it won't just wash off with basic shampoo you know your wax has worn off. What do you use

Tardis certainly overpowers autoglym tar remover

wash, rinse, de tar, rinse, de iron, rinse, clay. removes loads of rubbish so claying is much faster and safer. it only really removes iron particals but does help with other contaminants a little A video of wolfs chemicals own version of ironX...

this is the standard spray liquid IronX http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/CarPro_Iron_Cut_1.html i4detailing sell most of Carpro's kit using a iron or tar remover will go a good way to stripping most wax's or sealants. you use them as part of your major wash routine before going on to...

I have enough IX spray left to do my last 2 wheels then C5, all other wheels are sealed. but my spray head leaks hence the question. Have no reason to change as it always works superbly but thought I'd ask the more knowledgable out there

It doesn't look too bad but can't find the video http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/CarPro_Iron_X_Soap_Gel_1.html

but I've read decon gel is sprayed on, therefore can't be much of a gel? where as I'm sure I've sen ironX gel applied to a sponge and wiped on. What's your opinion to the decon gel?

Putting in an order soon and after some more IronX. Only ever used the standard liquid spray but the gel sounds handy for panels but not sure on the paste. Anyone used any of these other than the standard spray? i4d do the complete range

40 - 45 profile won't make much oddsw provided they are on the same axel, ie same fronts - same rears etc. puting semi slicks and normal tryes on and using it on the road WILL completely ruin the handling and probably run a high risk of it breaking loose

the 1*2 FBW throttle wasn't hard to heel and toe or simply blipping the throttle to match revs, it just comes down to plenty of practice, then once you get the hang of it and realise how much smoother it makes your driving you start doing it out of habit. not tried it in a 197/200 but a normal...

reckon these will be worth more / more sought after than Trophies soon.

have a look on the stamp on the glass, front screen should have 'AS1' and front windows should have 'AS2'. if they do you're pretty much at the legal tint maximum

not the best pic but the new RS style badge painted to match all other badges and trim

do you live or regularly park were you will get more? if not get them done, if it's a high risk of happening again just wait. I owned my 182 over 6 years from new and never had 1 dent in any panel. bodywork was immaculate when I sold it

me personally only bumpers and wings / doors up to the window line. If you're not making an online order and passing a Halfords have a play with autoglym intensive tar remover, not as good but same sort of thing.

what I meant was you might not get as much gain from using a glaze if you've already fully corrected, plus it may shorten the life of your wax, but it may help so just do as you say above and maybe apply another layer of wax more often. using tardis will takes minutes so I use it every time as...

C4 is expensive but then should last several years without re-application or UV damage, but it's not the easiest to apply. best non permanent trim dressing I've used is auto finesse revive. IronX is pretty good and can be bought in a soap gel or paste instead of spray on liquid, spray on...

I still like to use lime prime and have only just got rid of my bottle, but I did prefer the 'look' of the finish left more than rejuvenate due to the oils it leaves behind, but this in turn affected durability of non DJ waxes so it's 50/50. Guess it all depends on what waxes / sealants you plan...

I really like it and it seems to work with other brands of sealants and waxes I've tried, but if you're going to be using DJ waxes why not stick to brands with lime prime? or do you plan to use it with other brands

EP800 polisher another training day with Auto Finesse.

I'm doing between 70 and 90miles a day so the Clio had to go. Her old Golf that I use is silver and full of scratches and dings so I'm going to use it to practice on. Told her I was having the car today so I could clean and look at it properly this afternoon, 'it's only a car! the dogs are in...

We've recently bought a new 08 Focus after selling my Clio which my wife drives, and I've got her old beaten up Golf as I do a lot of miles for work. I go out to the car tonight to see a muddy gritty smudge running full length across the tops of both drivers side doors. I ask her what has...

were are you in Essex? If you decide not to go with the suparguard or other nano sealants your more than welcome to bring it round and we can give it a once over with a normal wax or sealant to get you started. As for professional detailers there is Rob and Gleammachine somewhere near Kent, or...

Yeah C4, used it with an old MF then paper towel. I'll check brand tonight to make sure it wasn't a industrial / special one as I got it off my dad

I did found I applied quite a bit as I could't see where I had already done, it dried so quickly and didn't make a difference to the finish as it was new plastics. Didn't habe the trouble with C5. Good job I haven't tried C1 yet. On a side note, brake and clutch cleaner removed it with ease...

I partially failed with C4, applied it to new mud flaps and grille. I don't think I buffed the residue off properly on the grill so left a white hazy effect that looked like it could be peeled off. stripped it of and re-applied and it's been spot on. next to do is the arch liners.

The vibration through the machine, my DA is quite bad for this. The EP does this but not as bad. it feels like it wants to direct the machine more almost like it's figthing you a little and wants to take its own course. The flex and festool on the same panel, using the same pad and comound ran...

Not used the sim or many others in fairness but recently used a flex and festool and my EP800 felt quite unbalanced in comparision, but nowhere near as bad as a DA. It's not a bad machine to use and felt fine on vertical panels One thing I don't like is the on /off switch and speed dial...

Paint 2:1 lacquer If it's that bad maybe try both, build it up with a brush then finish off with a cloth