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why whats wrong with it? it is a valver yes?

which engine do you have,either- 1,D7F-has a plastic inlet manifold that curls over the rocker cover etc. or 2,E type engine.rocker cover visible and has energy written on it in white letters. if your 1.2 is a e type engine then a 1.4 engine visually looks exactly the same so you could...

i reckon they should fit.easy job to change them just to try it anyway.

yes ive noticed that before.

have a quick look under the bonnet for leaks and check your coolant level to be on the safe side but i dont think its anything to worry about i just reckon it will be what i said before.

a cup is ever so slightly lower so that may be the only difference between the springs.its only about 10mm difference anyway.why do you ask?

possibly just steam from the condensation/water on the radiator evaporating as the radiator fills with hot coolant.

ooh ooh! whats that supposed to mean? anyway like the murphys here we go. 1,remove the headlight 2,undo the 16m nut on the engine mount and jack up the engine slightly to give you more room(put a jack under the sump but protect the sump with a block of wood or something) 3,there is a...

Do a search ive put the method on other posts lately

there is a towing eye on the chassis just behind the rear bumper.

it would be best to get a williams ecu.the valver ecu mapping would be different to a williams due to the different size engines.

either your idle valve is sticking(part of throttle body) on the D7F engine or the stepper moter could be faulty on the E type engine.on both types it could also be a faulty speedo cable sensor.

rear shockers shouldnt need bedding in.

sounds like a driveshaft joint is noisy.check the condition of the gaitors to see if they have leaked any grease.

should fit yes.

yes exactly the same.try bridgeing out the connector with a paper clip and see if it operates your lights.if it does then you have a faulty switch.dont let the paper clip touch the vehicle body as this will blow the fuse and bridge it with the ignition on.

you must have pulled out the wrong fuse.it would only run for a matter of seconds before losing fuel pressure if you had pulled out the correct fuse.starter moter and fuel pump dont use the same fuse.

have a look which way the suspension operates the valve.the valve allows more pressure through the lower the rear suspension is(eg,loaded up with people) so adjust the link rod so it acts on the valve in the same direction as the axle would.the proper accurate way to adjust it is by using in...

just turn the ingnition on/off a few times so the electric fuel pump primes the system and removes any air pockets.

158 sounds ok because your mods have gained back bhp you would have lost due to an old engine and a bit more after that.

the switch is on the n/s of the gearbox at the bottem.just across from your n/s driveshaft.the switch and connector are green.it has two wires due to it being a simple on/off switch.

i do think my cat back system has made a small difference

your tappets are probably leaking a bit overnight and thats why they rattle on every start up.have you tried some oil additive in it? sometimes helps.

yes like i said a procedure you can follow.the manual states when one valve is open it gives you an exhaust and a inlet valve to adjust.i would have to look up the exact sequence.very easy and a ten minute job

your problem sounds like something in the abs block neil.defo needs putting on a diagnostic tool to check

the engine would fit in but the cost of the parts you would need to change to get it running wouldnt make it worth your while.just buy a 172

230 is cheap there normally 330