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I really rate HD wax over SRP, 2x layers is currently lasting 5+ months, coming up to 6 on half my car, the other half I stripped off before it started to loose durability so I could try a different wax
are you talking about a 1*2? if so the sensor by the horn will be the acoustic valve, does nothing other than try and reduce induction noise. Not needed if you've replaced the airbox. And I presume you've got the Espace V6 / Ph1 172 style airbox? If so no real airfeed needed as it draws in from...
4mm sounds maybe a little too thick? I think I've used 2mm previously. Once attached to the boot, the badge should almost be touching the panel to resist any lifting.
APC is 'all purpose cleaner' such as Daisy from a supermarket. A single wheel cleaner will struggle with that IMO. will probably need several attempts.
I started using the black, white and green hexlogic pads with the DAS-6 and just wasn't getting the correction. So ended up ordering the orange and yellow cutting pads. If you're going to place an order and give correction a go, I'd recommend ordering a wide selection of pads from the start so...
But it doesn't last more than 3/4 weeks so needs regular aplication. Problem with it being so easy to use that it's far too easy to apply too much, it'll run into every gap and can't get rid of it.
For the beginner / halfords user I'd recommend SRP with HD wax. price is comparable as a pot...
can't comment on that one directly, but I found the waffle type towels to not dry that well. struggled to soak up the water once car was rinsed off and sheeted with an open end hose. needed ringing out twice so went back to my favourite...
Hi Gally, was that £30ish per spring to what ever spec you want???
I've been considering this route for a long time as I love the way the CUP chassic handles, but would like to see it an 1" lower. tried eibach sportlines that gave a nice drop but just felt too crashy over 'B' roads and felt...
I'd imagine before a recommendation can be made they'd need to know what condition the paint is in.
If you're after just enhancing the finish / bringing out the gloss and not correct then maybe use the Merzerna finishing compound and a light pad, or something like Lime Prime or similar...
For those newbies looking to pick up some tips and advice this might be worth looking at
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=2772704#post2772704
I'll be looking to go to see where I'm going wrong
I have the full RS192 system and decat and sits perfect. I think it might be worth having a play around with the fitment, especially with the mani - cat and cat - mid pipe connections.
surely it's worth a few hours fiddling than another £400
are you reffering to the basics of bling shampoo, the blue one? if so doesn't dilute down as much as BTBM, although it's still quite good. But I would have thought a little expensnsive for doing everyones cars and not just your own / families?
Followed a tungsten grey clio 16v from layer breton into tiptree this morning. lowered, black wheels with pink 'brunette inside' & 'SNAP-OFF beacuase its French' stickers on the boot and rear glass
Car looked and sounded really good, and nice to see a female driver in a decently modified clio
I really like the P Zero Nero, especially in the wet. Will be getting another set once these wear out.
One thing I would say for them, is they're quite quiet in relation to road noise compared to the others I've used, including Exaltos
In case anyone was wondering about the powerflex mount, here's my guide. Took me all of 45minutes in total to cut out the OE, measure, trim, inserting into the OE mount taking the longest part, and fitting. Hopefully it'll save some people £50ish...
I used the G3 last night on front and rear screens, used hardly any on application. But, on the the front screen every tiny little microscopic stonechip that I could never see has now been highlighted with the G3 and looks like mad polish splatter which I can't remove. And it's smeared, buffed...
In an evening last friday, I did the whole passenger side front wing, door and rear wing from start to finish. took me 3 hours. Will do the same again this Friday but to the drivers side. Rear bumper and bootlid already done.
I'm not really good enough to get it all done in anything but a full...
not used it, have just got some G3 to try.
But I've read it needs to cure for a while before buffing off with a cloth / MF, and again not allow water on it for the 1st few hours.
all the kits will get you started for correction, but you need to prep the panel before machining it. Wash, de tar, clay, plenty of MF clothes for wiping down. after machining the panel should be cleaned or wiped down, then you start on cleansers / glazes / sealants / waxes etc etc etc.
As...
G5? Gtechniq or another brand?
Gtechniq C5 is their wheel guard, G1 and G3 is their glass sealant. As far as I know you're not supposed to get them wet for 2hours after application.
What's your budget and are you buying online or in shop,. Over SRP I love AG HD wax, £30ish online but is much easier to use than Colli 476 and gives almost as good durability eg 6months if looked after. I haven't tried many sealants to comment on them but GTechniq C2 is cheap and SO easy to...
EGP is only good for 4 weeks max before it needs re-applying, even then it still doesn't protect that well. It's not worth the money. I used it for 2 years before I realised every other product is so much better.
Skip EGP next time and go straight to wax / proper sealant unless your desperately...
TBH any of the DA machines will be fine for a beginner, all depends on what pads and polish compounds you use.
I went for the above purely as it was the cheapest and I don't intend on using it often
it's all from can I'm afraid. have tried a quite expensive can of lacquer and still got the same effect so guessing it's me rather then paint.
I have a DA polisher so may give that a go shortly, applying lacquer to my fog surrounds tomorrow so will see how I get on.