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oh sh*t sorry ill have another look.for some reason i looked up the fan relay sorry mate.i think the fuel pump is the large relay in the relay box.ill check tomorrow.you can gain access to the fuel pump wiring by an access flap under the rear seats.you could check relay operation by checking for...

bit of a loss of traction when setting off but in general ok

ill ask him about the manifold whilst im there.seen the map on the website but its not that clear.

i think my bro is ill ask him and get back to you. thanks

i know mate.i thinking im going to have a run down to get an induction kit off them.its over nottingham way isnt it?

how much was that then? how loud is it? cheers

the exchange idea sounds a lot easier because i could change it myself then. i wondered what happened rich

try greasing the speedo cable head(instrument panel end)

there are no sensitivity adjustment screws on the new alarms.you have to swap over the red and white ultrasonic connectors.this will reduce sensitivity by 40%.turn off the ultrasonic function and retry it.

every service almost,tighten up lever base.pain in the arse.

check the outer anti roll bar links as well.there commen for snapping

is that for a manifold or the price for them to modify yours?

ive heard about modified brackets as well whats your exhaust dogmaul?

poss but its the torsion bars that really determines ride height.you could visually check your shockers for fluid leaks.

you squeeze the end and pull it off.you can normally flick it off with a screwdriver.remove the lower dash trim and you can see the cable.put your screwdriver up the gap and flick off the cable.you can also push the cable back on this way with a screwdriver if theres not much slack in the cable.

sounds a good quote then mate

check your bottem balljoints for play.the top shocker top bearings seize and break up as well.

will probably fail but if you have a really clean running engine there is a slight chance it would scrape through.your car would probably have to pass stricter emissions limits than toms with yours being newer.

ok.cheers for the reply mike.

eh up mike.has your exhaust got a centre section? did you need to fit an extra mount or does it just use the original mounts? cheers mate.

t key is for the wheel caps,the locking wheel nuts are a single one peice shape.they did away with the locking wheel nuts with the pins because they used to break.

the coil is bolted to the n/s inner wing or the bulkhead.

no

i bet thats really loud,there no box in the centre section on that system is there?

vvt is not to improve idle. it works from 1500rpm to 4750rpm when the engine temp is above 80c and on full throttle only.there is a two position camshaft dephaser on the inlet cam controlled by oil pressure directed down channels by a computer controlled solenoid.the oil pressure is directed to...

check your pads you have done 17500 miles after all.new clios dont have pad warning light wires.

there is a special tool which makes changing track arms a lot easier.the renault kits alright because you get all the washers and a new rack gaiter as well.£60 labour is ok but make sure you get your tracking checked after.

look at the relay box from the passenger side.starting from the left the relays are:- 599-coolant pump relay 238-injection locking relay 234-cooling fan relay

unplug the sensor and put a multimeter across the pins.put the multimeter to ohms and see what you get.ill have to find out the value for you but i think its 1.6ohms. ill check what it is.

the battery charger might have caused a temp voltage spike in the comp that sorted itself out