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you have a 172 Ph2 which has a FBW (fly by wire throttle system). This means that there is a sensor on the accel pedal and a motor that actually controls the throttle in the engine. It's normal for it to wine/squeal a little bit, they all do it.
there was some really nice R5s there today. And I loved the trophy engined Vee 3.5 litre ITB :)
Could I have gone and parked in field, next to other CSers as I am a member (although my 172 is not mint at all)
isnt the £1000 odd pound the value difference between your car and a 182?
Try and get a PX deal on a 182??
182 manifolds require quite a lot of labour to fit so don't really seem cost effective IMO unless you are doing it yourself.
Best of luck with your decisions mate.
i've written a guide. Pay your £5er and you can see it.
It's a farkin huge manifold which makes it less than simple. You need to remove the subframe to get it in.
Certinally possible. But I wouldn't recommend it to a first time home mechanic
^^ I've had 3 thermostats fail on me in a 205 and 2 clios. All of them stuck open, meaning the car overcooled. It may be worth changing the thermostat as it's a 15 min job if you have the right torx bits, just make sure you buy one with a gasket, they are only cheap.
have you got a coolant...
really? I took mine off the other day and tired to put it on at a different angle but couldn't due to the big spline. Are all 1*2 columns the same.
Thanks for you help mate. I may have another look at it in a min
Also, be warned, You need a massive socket (32mm iirc) and a LONG breaker bar to get your hub nuts off and it's pretty important to use a big torque wrench doing them back up.
I have put a little section in my 182 manifold conversion guide about refitting ball joints which is a pain if you don't...
Im sorry, but suspension work is not really fiddly. If you have a breaker bar and a socket set you can't really go far wrong. Clean all the threads up nicely before you start unbolting and it's relatively easy to remove a front hub. The only hard bit is removal and refitting of the bearing...
as you know the wheel and column are both splined so the slot together and then they are secured with a bolt.
on the 1*2 one of the splines is a bigun (about twice the size of the others) so the wheel only fits on one way. FARKING daft design
It's not very far at all.
With the wheels tracked correctly and travel left in the rod ends both ways - the steering wheel is about 10 degrees off i'd say
there just isnt enough travel in the rod ends to bring it straight, hence me looking for a spline somewhere.