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Be interesting to know if it's got 300 in it, thing would be potent for sure. Supersprint have said around 10hp from their system so perhaps 260 may be as far as you can take it.

Shifts ! Think there will be much more to gain from intake/exhaust mods ? Does anybody know what turbo the 220 uses yet for a realistic max before mega money is required ?

True, you can't help but worry about durability when it's exceeding the manufacturers limit though, especially when it's a pretty intricate piece of kit. it's perhaps the reason the Clio makes less torque the Pergeot and Ford offerings. Actually hoping the recommendation is very reserved...

Be interesting to see how the boxes cope with remapped torque, the box is already at its limit according to getrag. http://www.getrag.com/media/products/powershift/6dct250/20150915_GETRAG_Press_information_6DCT250.pdf

I've had 5 and I'm 27... Use my PH1 daily 20k miles a year. Sometimes I do pull into the office car park and think "I should get something proper" Tends to get forgotten when drive it home at the end of the day.

I did have a play with the diff, genuinely think it improved cornering but found it really hurt that tight corner in the second sector, also had a habit of spinning you just after the exit (mind I had the force thingy setting set to max) try putting some more pressure in the front right wheel, I...

Well that was seriously difficult ! I found the more you tune it, the more stable the car was to drive, but ultimately a smidgen slower. Changes I made: Brake Pressure: 100% Front right tyre: +0.1 bar (Corner does not see as much heat) Steering ratio: 18.9.1 Brake mapping: 8

Updated time for me, struggle to take any time out of sector 2 and 3, just can't seem to carry enough on that first corner !

It's so close at the top ! Done a few stints and managed to get a 0:47.780 - Painfully close :)

First time I've seen this ! Just done a few laps and best I've managed so far; PC/Wheel/No assists

Got to be up there, seen it at York raceway one year, properly rapid.

If memory serves this is the spanner you need for the rod ends, got mine from here and it got my PH1 ends off without any issues: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/spanners-wrenches/laser-fan-spanner-32-36mm

Standard offset wheels and/or spacers fitted ?

1x Red PH1 1.2 (Bonnet latch failed) 1x Black PH2 1.4 (UCH Failed) 1x Titanium PH1 172 (Timing belt failed) 1x Flame Red PH2 172 (Sold for a profit and was put into a wall 1 week later) 1x Iceberg PH1 172 (tbc) Despite the issues, I still want another one... I need therapy.

Or more affectionately known as the over Rev light that was fitted to the W and X ref PH1's. What part of the car produces this feature ? I thought perhaps the ECU but I moved my ECU from my old W reg (which had the light) to my current Y reg PH1 and the light does not work (Could be there's no...

This isn't a repair as such - it's simply removing the circuit for settings 1/2/3 (Which require resistance to function at such speeds, thus need a thermal fuse as it get's hot) Setting 4 functions as it would on any other car (Unrestricted). It's also possible to get these results by simply...

Depending on the model you get slightly different results, on the cup style one with no AC I've found it will burn out causing a nasty smell and kill the fuse. Replacing the fuse will simply cause it to blow again.

If anybody else is having this problem and really needs the fans for over the winter - just remove the resistor pack from the cup blowers and snap off resistor section (the big green bit that sits elevated away from the plastic) so you essentially have a positive and a negative only. This means...

I've blown 3 resistor packs in 2 months and it's getting really old having to pull the unit out. Does anybody know of an aftermarket resistor pack that fits the mk2 cup blower motor and is reliable ? Cheers Paul

Holy thread resurrection ! It's common for the manifold to hit the ARB when the dog mount is worn. A few of the 182 manifolds where bashed in to stop knock.

There's also a common issue of the seat won't slide when using the handle to let passengers into the rear, it'll allow the back of the seat forward but won't slide towards the dash. There's a small round pin that's fallen out and is probably loose under the chair, just needs popping back in.

Daft question but it's not catching on the arch liner is it ? Could also be the tyres if you've bought a set with tyres on them, if the previous car had no camber the tyre would be worn differently to what you have set.

As above I've got the 2.5" silenced system and it's by no means quiet, it's boomy to some degree (People sat in the back struggle to have a convo) Always wondered if a 2.25" straight through section would sound better.

I had this when the release bearing was on it's way out, also accompanied by a whirling/light grinding noise in the bay, lasted around 10k before it let go completely. Would certainty be worth trying the cable first, just because of the cost of a clutch change (Or the swearing involved with...

From memory 2 of them are easily accessible from the top, I just cut the captive nut's off and replaced them with stainless items.

Cracking photo's ! What's the current spec ?

Hiya, Does anybody have a wire diagram for a PH1 engine bay loom, fitted some parts yesterday and appears I've disturbed a wire - Car is cranking and fuel pump priming but it's not firing up (Fuse's are fine, no immobilizer and the fuel cut off hasn't popped) Cheers Paul

You just need to drop the subframe down a bit, there was a 182 manifold fitting guide in the guide section with pictures which may be helpful. Link: http://www.cliosport.net/threads/182-manifold-coversion-on-172.313845/

Hmm if the lug has completely snapped off the only option for repair would be welding I imagine. May be easier then removing the manifold, dropping subframe etc

Do you have a picture ? The fitting kit (springs etc) actually come with a cup which slips into the manifold - but it often looks part of the manifold due to rust.