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Yeah Mick I was meaning resistance test really but it was late. I'm just not sure there would be a clean path from pedal to ecu without resistors or some potential stoppage. Liam, few simple checks to try In areas I have noticed are dodgy (French) points on these cars on the few cups I have...

Mick could he not continuity check the associated loom if its easily accessible, that's something that a home mechanic should manage with basic tools. When you mention cups, are there not many engine loom faults on these?

Liam throttle potentiometer is your accelerator pedal and the other I'm not too sure, did the codes come back after deleted? Looking good Gaz, I wouldn't take your door cards out until you have something to cover them, could properly f**k you up in a bash. Also if your seats are bothering...

My landlord of where I have a unit had his Group B SWB Quattro out for a test today before it's shown at a local speed fair. Hopefully tomorrow I well get a run around the test they have set out. I thought I would share some pics and vids as its one my favourite ever cars and I know there...

Lol I missed it.

I wouldn't be buying anything from mark fish tbh, nothing against the guy but his prices are astronomical. Try the actual manufacturer to buy, as with anything its cheaper when you go to the builder.

Or upgrade your AA would be the logical idea if you don't have full recover.

^^^^ yeah as said its the top is for cup's. They were packaged wrong at the factory afaic as the boxes were all new and never been opened, another was sent out which confirmed my thoughts.

Old style bars have two holes and newer have three. Well that's the case with the bars my mates fit to there racing minis. I can't see you noticing a difference between the two, I run full hard all the time even on wet track days but I'm going to disconnect it next time for comparison.

As said firstline is one for sure but I can't remember the others know, mine are still okay. And they ain't dear, £12 I payed for mine. Make sure you check them before booking it in somewhere or go to do the work, I had two different threads on the knuckle, they were In the same boxes with...

There's noises everywhere, I would change your dog bone for a start.

Yeah you would have to along with trying to get loom out the way some how and all the PAS pipes etc, looks like a total chore that way, you struggle enough for one person to lift the box out the bottom as it is when on stands.

Aye managed to sort out time off in the end for that weekend, month off FTW.

Yes and no Have a look at post 26 http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?694771-Clio-big-brake-conversions/page2

I thought the same maybe but that box felt like it had never been out, just the way all the bolts came out/looked. That's a transmech clutch, it has pony straps on it that Burpspeed have broke before.

I have a complete saxo pump setup with billet mounting bracket, custom hoses and heat shielding from Icemans racecar if your interested.

Still got some life left in it yet Does anyone know the manufacturer of the original clutches????? Im pretty sure this box has never been out in the near 108'000 miles its been going.

Nice one, another potential Clio fwend to play with. It will be like a fart in a bean tin competition no doubt with all them ricers, need to balance it out a bit.

Where does the box come out? :S ​

I like the accuracy of 3h 4min haha Your 90% of the way to taking down the subframe and you could avoid draining the coolant, removing rad etc by going out the bottom and a lot of other steps, might try it once if I need to swap a clutch in a rush.

I...I know, I don't have the luxury of choosing which days to go to so that will do for popping my reverse cherry

Pistonheads Motorsport classified section Few to chose from (theres usally more including the new maragoni TD tyre which is getting good reviews) at some point I will try these different brands. 888's are fairly turd tyre for the sector there in. I actually found the size you were looking...

Jesus it is dangerous, did you have hair to begin with? ;) Was it a glue jobbie.

Pistonheads but you will have to take a 55 profile. Bridgestone dz30g'sm(or whatever they are called) are better and cheap too.

Seem's a little expensive for Toyo's. I have a set of Nearly new Hankook Evo S1's for sale that only done a wet trackday then came off. Better tyre than the toyo too but there 195/45/16 though. £200 delivered, they are just dirty in the pic and rears have closer to 8mm left...

I got the box out in an hour with the subframe down by myself, took me about two to put everything else in including new clutch,flywheel and swapping the gearbox end cover. Add another hour for all the covers and driveshafts my car didn't have fitted. Did you do it on an ABS car Nick?

True that's when it becomes easier to pull the engine. Dunno what Dan@SJM's method is?

That was my thinking too, it seems the easiest way to do them when on axle stands. I can't see how it passes the chassis leg, hence me wanting to see the guide.

We'll get you a metal splitter made and fitted and then maybe you might get payed for grass cutting, could sort out a 2/4/1 for my thing too :D Anybody else plan on doing the reverse day on the 7th too?

I would pay attention to what offset wheel you have and not so much the height.