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​Hhhhmmm I wonder!!!!

​????

Not always, you read my post earlier and quoted it, I had/have no faults stored on the dash or by using diagnostics.

Big washers or small plate welded onto the strut will be the strongest idea, then you can make big long slots for loads of camber adjustment. It all depends on what coilovers you are modifying and how much material there is to play with.

Re: SUPER 1600 REPLICA based on 172, CLIO WILLIAMS Tribute, CLIO WILLIAMS IV (Austra You love a sticker, those shocks are certainly not R-sport parts. Bow are you going to widen the track at the front? Have you got ideas?

They have some type of stability program iirc. Your having issues with the pedal feel? My master cylinder is different to yours being a Cup but I have absolutely no issues or need for improvement just now, might change when/if I change to a laguna setup at the rear.

Can I ask why you want to change it anyway? my pedal feels quality on my Cup with brembos fitted, pedal is right at the top and firm. ESP is a stability program so I would say without. PM Mike, I'm sure he will be willing to help. Can you post your findings in here if you do please.

Re calliper, that's a small one lol. ​Do you work for MAN?

You have answered your own question, 172 cups run 16" wheels the same as yours so absolutely no difference.

Agreed, bolt to hub type of spacer has 4 more failing points than your standard by hub centric type. Obviously fitting 25mm or 40mm bolt to hub Is much safer at that sort of widths.

16" wheels are 16" wheels, if your getting rubbing with your wheels you will get rubbing with Turini's. The arms were fitted to later 1*2's anyway so the answer is yes, says above if you have those two things that are either side of your nose.

OMFG that guy should hang his spanners up and retire.

Search 'go caster yo Clio' on google, you'll get the idea.

Laguna is a bigger car so it should have bigger disks,pads,calipers. 197's have the same design (as in bearing part of the disk) as the Clio iirc, laguna setup or similar will be better as you can fit a bigger bearing with a separate hub/disk design, stronger and cheaper to replace disks too.

Look into mk1 laguna/safrane rear brakes, supposedly you can fit the entire rear hub assembly including stub axles etc straight on as that's what the later Cup Racers ran, the benefit is a separate hub and disks which are bigger and so Re the caliper pistons. The only thing I'm not sure on is...

I feel sorry for the guy but lol at their accent and audio.

Not good Andrew. Has that had glue or some type of sealant on it? Doesn't look like a fresh break from the pic.

Just the man to explain why my Cup doesn't have the light on with buckets and aftermarket wheel? Light blanked?

French logic, the kit that comes with several different unneeded seals. Makes money sense as soon as you buy the sump gasket and crank seal seperately though.

iirc £22

Your missing disk spacers by the sounds of it, they go behind the disk. Its stub axle, disk spacer, disk, lock nut (in that order) No other parts needed. Make sure the spacers haven't stuck to the back of the old disk if you have replaced them. Hub nuts should be replaced according to Renault...

I have the tools and the know how ;) it makes no sense doing new disks, they have covered 250 miles max since being skimmed, blasted and painted. I could replace a bearing for £15-£20 if I had the time to remove the bearing and search for bits. Even buying from Fred £30 v £110 is a no brainer.

Stub axle's are held onto axle by 4 bolts, 3x m10 and 1x m8 counter sunk torx bolts. Then on the actual stub axle there's a disk spacer, disk then locking nut. 4 pieces In total make up the rear hub assembly, 12 if you count the nuts & bolts that hold the stub to the axle. You then have the...

I suppose my question should have said "where can you buy good bearings" Yeah my mate gets cheap SKF through his work, I'm needing them as soon as I'm home unfortunately for fitting straight away. I would have to remove them etc etc first. Disks are nearly brand new. If you remember...

As above, I need to replace my rear wheel bearing and want to get some good quality ones. And while I'm asking, is there any good fronts too without buying from Renault?

I would say that's the angle sensor, either that it the torque sensor. That won't be needed as the control box fakes the signal. Any bolts will do, best to re-use the 2x original bolts (there free) if you can get matching nuts. Me personally I would have some sort of locking aid, spring washer...

Ouch. Doesn't look too bad tbh that would repair for about 2-4k (if suspension/chassis is alright) max doing it yourself, looked liked more of a glancing blow than a full on pile into an Armco. Cant ever see that made a total loss being its a 20k + car, he's still going to cry himself to sleep...

Gutted for you, at least the other party didnt come of scot free if he caused it. TBH though a 15minute track session has got trouble written all over it, everyone wanting there money's worth in a such a short time will cause accidents.

They are not oem bushes they are some pattern part. Save yourself the hastle and buy new Renault bottom arms.

Yes...yes it should. I did me to say that.